Another hydraulic hose

   / Another hydraulic hose #1  

irvingj

Elite Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2008
Messages
3,482
Location
Etna, NH
Tractor
2007 MF GC2310 TLB
-- This time, it's one of the FEL hoses. Was working it pretty hard (maybe too hard) and one of the hoses blew out near the right-angle fitting on the joystick control. Sure did spray some fluid around! Had to wash the whole tractor after its oil bath.

I just want to make sure I have it right-- the largest nut should unscrew from the second-largest nut (to its left), correct? It seems to be wicked tight and I don't want to mess this up. Anybody ever seen one of these taken apart?

Thanks!

DSC05156.JPGDSC05157.JPGDSC05158.JPG
 
   / Another hydraulic hose #2  
The piece with the flair turns, all others remain stationary. Center in the third pic. Do use back-up wrenches.
 
   / Another hydraulic hose
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks, I just wanted to make sure. Got it off and new hose made up. Should be good as new shortly.

DSC05159.JPGDSC05160.JPG
 
   / Another hydraulic hose #4  
Kinda like flying a Stearman.

You fly for an hour, and then spend 2 hours wiping the oil off of it. :thumbsup:
 
   / Another hydraulic hose
  • Thread Starter
#5  
:laughing: BTDT Ray -- when I first picked up my PA-22, same deal. Old, hard, leaking oil return lines on its O-320 accounted for 95% of the leaking. No more!! (How the %$# could somebody leave them in there so long??)

New FEL hose all mounted; new stuff MUCH heavier than the OEM stuff, so I had it made 1" longer. Hopefully it will still be able to twist around the way it has to when hooking up the FEL.

Thanks again, top builder!
 
Last edited:
   / Another hydraulic hose #6  
The piece with the flair turns, all others remain stationary. Center in the third pic. Do use back-up wrenches.

I'm interested how this turned out (uh yea.. no pun intended). The flared end (in the disassembled picture) is the flared end of the tubing, right? The nut to the left with the threads pushes down against the flared tube end and into the receiving nut in the center of the picture, right? So normally you want no sliding action on the flare itself, so one would hold the tubing and the center nut stationary while turning the smaller nut to the left of the picture.

This is how the hydraulic brake lines connect on my van. I'd like to make sure I understand what is going on before replacing my first tractor hydraulic line.
 
   / Another hydraulic hose #7  
The FJX fitting nut spins but the actual contact point on the flare of the MJ fitting is stationary as they compress/tighten. As long as you use proper back up wrenches turned the right way, I don't think you can do any damage. All weight/pressure off lines before wrenching fittings, even then allow pressure to slow to a drip before final separation.
 

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