Another new house question (water in and septic out) ???

Mudfarmer · Jul 24, 2011

thatguy said:
Around here it seems that the Health Dept tell you where you will put the well and septic.. You may request a general area, but they have the final decision..

brian

Yup, I agree. Indeed, you'll be surprised at how few options you have so don't even think about it - go talk to your county permits people. Be aware that the septic required for the trailer will be smaller than that for the house, so do it right the first time. Do not on any account rely on the opinion of your septic installer - notoriously unreliable.

M

CurlyDave · Jul 25, 2011

The septic size required will be based on the number of bedrooms in the house and the ability of the soil to handle the effluent.

We had to leave closets out of two rooms so they would not be counted as bedrooms in order to satisfy septic requirements.

I agree -- base your septic system on what the county says, not what the installer says.

pharmvet · Jul 25, 2011

Great information guys. Some thinks I forgot to mention. Im on 130 acres on a sandy hill. Its very rural, so very little legal requirements, but Im sure you guys are correct about septic requirements.

1) I like the idea of the septic tank far away from the house

2) I like the idea of coming into the house in 2 locations

3) How do you recommend handling "Grey Water". I have heard some say they plumbed it into the septic and some say they run it out separately.

4) Also, Im planning a 4 bedroom 3 bath home. What size septic tank would you recommend. Also, Im all about OVERKILL. What are some things you would ask your plumber to do in order to reduce the chances of problems with the septic system over time. Things like "more gravel" "larger lines" "more or less fall" etc. I am trying to do this right the first time and avoid problems and corrections later on. thanks

jwstewar · Jul 25, 2011

4) Also, Im planning a 4 bedroom 3 bath home. What size septic tank would you recommend. Also, Im all about OVERKILL. What are some things you would ask your plumber to do in order to reduce the chances of problems with the septic system over time. Things like "more gravel" "larger lines" "more or less fall" etc. I am trying to do this right the first time and avoid problems and corrections later on. thanks

We can't tell you this, the Health Department will do this when they tell you what type of system that you need to install and where it will be placed.

jonyyuma · Jul 25, 2011

Even with that much land" Perking "is everything...Systems have changed a lot as to field lines and placements. Grey water too...See your county agents..

955Lincoln · Jul 25, 2011

Like others have said, gather as much info as you can for your area. It might even be online, I know PA is.

I have 150 acres and it's going to be difficult for me to find a good drain site because most of my slope is slightly more than what they like to see. Also, too much sand may not be a good thing because it can perk too fast. You should plan your home layout including all of the good advice givin here and work on finding a suitable site for your tank and drainfield. If the county is involved then your plans may change drastically.

PA makes me mad concerning grey water. I want to pipe it out seperately but they want it to go into the septic and it seems to me like a bad idea with all of that water saturating the system.

If you want overkill spec. a 5 or 6 bedroom system and everything will be scaled up accordingly.

Touching back on my previous post on your original question. If you place your tank before starting the foundation of the house, make sure you know the exact elevation that you want your house to be because normally you adjust the tank to the house. You don't want to be forced into the position of adjusting the house elevation to the tank and screw up your drainage plans, landscaping, and so forth.

jinman · Jul 26, 2011

Pharmvet, since I don't know the county where you intend to build, I can't search the web to find info. Some counties have a health department and others have a public works department for overseeing septic systems. Your county will have specific minimum lot size requirements and base the requirements on the no. of bedrooms as Curly Dave said. If your property is within the corporate limits of a city, you may have additional requirements and regulations. Often, county commissioners offices can point you in the right direction, but county websites are a great place to start. The type of septic systems allowed will vary from county to county. Wise County requires an engineer to approve and submit plans for every system. Most counties even have lists of approved engineers and approved installers. They may require an aerobic system or you may be allowed to install a conventional system. You just don't know until you check.

As far as your house plans are concerned, I like to bring electric, water, and sewer into a garage wall if possible. Having plumbing services and as much wiring as possible in garage walls means if you ever have to do a tear-out, you are making a mess in the garage instead of the inside of the house.

nickel plate · Jul 26, 2011

I have a similar situation at our future new home property near Yosemite NP. First we put in the well, then the electricity and then the 3BD-2BA concrete septic tank and leach field.
The 28' travel trailer is positioned about 75' from the well which also has a 110V 30A plug-in that powers the trailer via roll up extension cords, put out when we are there and rolled up when we leave. The same proceedure takes place with water via white drinking water hoses from the well to the trailer.
The trailer's black, grey and galley holding tanks are emptied into the septic tank's clean out stub up pipe which is about 50' away and slightly downhill via a series of push connected 2" black ABS pipe. Attached to the 2" ABS pipe at the trailer is a flexible tube device called a "Sewer Solution" that attaches directly one at a time, to all three of the trailer's clean out pipes which is sold at all of the RV stores and websites. It utilizes a controlled stream of water pressure via (love that word) a garden hose with an anti-siphon valve to break down the solid black waste (being polite) as it jets the debris out of the black tank and into the ABS pipe for quick delivery to the septic tank. I did add a ball valve at the end of the Sewer Solution where it pressure attaches to the 2" ABS drain pipe JUST IN CASE! The "JUST IN CASE" has not happened in the three years of usage..... Again, the flexible tube Sewer Solution gets rolled up and packed away, the ABS pipe gets capped at both ends and left out intact on the ground and the septic tank's cleanout cap gets screwed back on. Works for us.

pharmvet · Jul 26, 2011

As far as your house plans are concerned, I like to bring electric, water, and sewer into a garage wall if possible. Having plumbing services and as much wiring as possible in garage walls means if you ever have to do a tear-out, you are making a mess in the garage instead of the inside of the house.

Great advice Eddie. Ill write this down in my book. Thanks also to all the other replies. this is good stuff.
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dave1949 · Jul 26, 2011

Like others have said, the process here is to have an approved/licensed septic designer create the septic plan. That includes tank size and leach field method based upon # of bedrooms, perk test, soil types and elevations as they pertain to the septic design. That is the only way, a prerequisite, to get a 'plumbing permit' here.

So, realistically, all your important choices are decided when that septic designer does their field visit. That is time to be there and ask questions, request alternatives or what ever. Pre-educate yourself on these issues a bit, as you are, to be able to ask the right questions. Such as, 'can I have this or that type of system?'. Or, 'can my system be installed here or there?'

Dave.