Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem

   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #1  

fishpredator07

New member
Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
19
Location
Colorado
Tractor
L3130
I've been reading the posts related to buckets not holding level, mine wants to roll and dump. After reading the suggestions I need a little help understanding the steps to isolate without killing myself or the FEL.

I've replaced the piston assemblies in both cylinders. At first, I thought this had resolved the problem. After a couple months of inactivity due to an electrical issue (that I hope I've resolved), the problem seems to be worse in that its rolling faster. I found a leak in one of the hoses which I've replaced.

I think I'm back to the steps where I need to isolate this as to being a cylinder or valve issue. I haven't cycled the rams several times to remove air but will do that prior to moving on.

I don't have quick connects and want to try to remove and plug the hoses to see what happens but I have questions:
1) Which lines do I remove and plug in order to test the bucket's ability to hold? I guess a real detailed explanation of what to do here would be much appreciated.
2) At which points should I disconnect and plug the lines.

Someone suggested swapping the 1-2 pair with the 3-4 pair. Can I assume that means to swap the lift/lower pair with the retract/dump pair at the valve hookup?


Thanks for your patience, assistance, and suggestions.
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #2  
Yes.. you can do the 1-2, 3-4 swap.. if the bucket stops doing it.. it points to a valve issue... if it keeps doing it.. it sounds like a cyl issue... perhaps one bypassing internally.

soundguy
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks soundguy. I'll try that first.
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Swapped the pairs and still had the problem.

Assuming its a cylinder problem, which means I didn't do a good job replacing the gland assemblies or the problem is somewhere else.

To isolate which cylinder is the problem, can I plug the feed and return lines that would go to each end of the cylinder and test one at a time without breaking something?

Thanks again.
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #5  
Lift the cyls, remove the drop side fittings.. let them set... one should start leaking oil out the 'dead' side of the cyl.

soundguy
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Soundadvice: I've attached a drawing marked where I think you're saying I should disconnect. Let me know if that's the right spot. Thanks for your help.
 

Attachments

  • loader.pdf
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   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #7  
You want to extend the cyl, then block the loader, then pull those lines and plug them, then unblock the cyl.. then pull the other lines.. if the cyls are bypassing internally.. the unblocked ports will start seeping and the cyls will begin to sag..

soundguy
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #8  
If you have access to compressed air, you can also remove both hoses from the cylinder, and then blow air into one of the ports. If the cylinder is bypassing internally around the gland seals, you will get air out the other port.
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem #9  
Koyker FEL?

Wedge
 
   / Another rookie fighting a hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Wedge: yes, its a Koyker 210.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'll post again when I've had a chance to try them out.
 

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