Well, it seems that my front loader has almost the same symptoms as RWolf's. I have a Kubota L3010 with a 481 loader, with 440 hours. Last fall I noticed that the bucket breakout power seemed like it was not as good as it always used to be, but I really didn't give it too much thought. I installed my Kubota factory snow blade this winter (1st year with it), and this thing really kicks ***. It worked great pushing mounds of snow, and when the frost cleared out I used it to clear a 100 ft. long extra driveway through the woods, just blasting throughthe dirt like a dozer- it really is remarkable! Last weekend I reinstalled my loader to start moving gravel for my driveway and noticed immediately that when digging into a pile of gravel there just didn't seem to be a lot of power for lifting and curling. The other problem I noticed was with the bucket at half dump and the loader raised, and then being lowered to " rake" some of the material off the top of the pile, the bucket would actually "curl" back under the pressure and then flop down to full dump when the material fell away.( I hope that makes sense). I can also only raise a full bucket to hood height, and very slowly at that. Last night I changed the hydraulic fluid, filters, and cleaned the suction screen with no improvement. There weren't any particles on the suction screen, and just a few tiny shavings on the filter magnet. This weekend I will be putting a pressure guage on each of the loader control valve outlets, ( one at a time), to check the pressures. I think Kubota lists the pump pressure at 2500 psi. If the pressure isn't up to par, where is the relief valve that can be shimmed, and is that the right fix?
Another weak front loader
- Thread starter ELMO67
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Soundguy
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If the pressure is nor up to par .. make sure it is not a bypassing cyl or valve before you go dinking with any reliefs..
I'd check to see if the cyl's are bypassing internally. remove the dump line front he bucket cyl, and then curl it under pressure to limit, and hold it there.. if oil shoots out the dump port.. the cyl is bypassing...
soundguy
I'd check to see if the cyl's are bypassing internally. remove the dump line front he bucket cyl, and then curl it under pressure to limit, and hold it there.. if oil shoots out the dump port.. the cyl is bypassing...
soundguy
slowzuki
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9/10 times says you have a faulty loader quick connect. Unplug them all and replug in.
That sounds like my kind of fix! When I reinstalled the loader last weekend, I had a lot of trouble getting the coupler to connect for the curl cylinder (4 new couplers and hoses to the control valve). I tried to compress the center nipple ( very difficult) and when I did fluid shot out all over. I tried to reconnect and still couldn't, and at that point I could not depress the center nipple at all. I loosened the hose connection at the cylinder and bled out most of the fluid and the coupler went right on... I can't wait to get home and check that!!! Funny thing is on Sunday I mentioned to my brother-in-law the PIA I had hooking up the loader and he said " Just depressing the center nipple shouldn't be a problem".
Wayne County Hose
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Soundguy said:
Nice easy test. Even if the oil weeps out, the piston seals are bad. Let's see, 4 new hoses, probably not cleaned before install, and now a FEL issue, hmmm..........
I did blow out the hoses... I really think the problem was starting last summer as I mentioned, but it does seem a lot worse this year. Well, if this is the case, would that mean a complete rebuild of all four cylinders?
Wayne County Hose
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If it started last summer and progressively got worse, I put my money on worn piston seals. Valves usually work or they don't. Do the test Soundguy pointed out.
Oh, and please just trust me on this, but blown out is not cleaned out. It's kind of like getting mud on your blue jeans and letting it dry. Blow the mud off with air, a lot of the mud is gone, but they're still dirty.
Oh, and please just trust me on this, but blown out is not cleaned out. It's kind of like getting mud on your blue jeans and letting it dry. Blow the mud off with air, a lot of the mud is gone, but they're still dirty.
Oh, I believe you 110%, anything I've ever painted- cars, furniture, models, etc. or any engine or tranny I've built has to be surgically clean. I know better than to try and get by just blowing the lines out but I guess I'm just trying to console myself for my stupidity this time. I really don't think it is the valve since the plow had so much power. But still, if the pressure test reveals that it could be a relief problem, where would the relief valve be on my L3010?
PAB_OH
Platinum Member
ELMO67 said:
Air in the circuit?
