Any Boss V plow repair guys here?

Clint S · Nov 30, 2014

In my Fisher the electronics are in the stick. The fact that the lights do not work are sort of leading to something electric too. Boggen why would you unhook the cylinders, just alot of work to see if it moves???????

boggen · Nov 30, 2014

at time not having a clue and going by what i saw was multi hyd cylinders.
the handful of pictures i looked at on google for boss v plows. looked like the cylinders were matched up with a second or more hydraulic cylinders. meaning if you wanted one hyd cylinder to extend one or more would have to contract as well at same time. if ya un hook'ed one of the ends...of the hyd cylinders. it would remove the "matching up" of hyd cylinders. and this able to test each hyd cylinder individually. since you would be bypassing the controller.

but now looking at manual... katadin linked to... i was wrong

boggen · Nov 30, 2014

page 16 is showing a single relay, and one inline fuse.

would say check the relay and inline fuse.

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testing controller....
unplug the chassis cable between plow and vehicle. and plug in controller.
you should be able to press a button on controller, and at same time run a multi meter across the pins at the vehicle chassis cable end. to see what you get if anything as far as dc 12 volts.

page 16, pin 1 = black. = neg cable on battery. all others = positive, if i am reading schematic correctly.

exception the black/yellow = lights.

DIXIEDOG · Nov 30, 2014

Well I figured I'd give an update....I finally found the issue. On the plow side there is a ground harness that has a diode in it....the diode is bad. I took a jumper and bypassed the section of wire with the diode and everything works. Looks like a new harness will fix me up.

Clint S · Nov 30, 2014

No need to even do that you can just check it at the cartridge for 12 v. That's why I asked "how'' he checked them for magnetism. If he presses the button and they magnetize the controller is working. This does not mean the valve is opening though. I do not think that is it though because I think (not sure) it would still angle if the valve was stuck. Just like it should raise if the crossover relief valve was stuck open as that only protects angle. If it was stuck in float via the controller being bad the float solenoid would be magnetized and the controller may lock other functions out. If the motor runs and the controller magnetized the coils correctly it is either frozen or the pump is toast