Any experience with gun blue or refinishing?

[rtimgray]

I recently picked up an old Mauser that had been pretty heavily sporterized and somewhat neglected. I initially had intentions of trying to return it to a mostly original state, but now I'm not too sure.

The finish on the metal parts is fairly inconsistent, with some of it looking pretty good and some of it is bare metal. Due to some other issues with the gun, even if I tried to "restore" it, it won't be any more historically valuable because it will just be an amalgam of mismatched parts. I would like to try to get a good finish on the metal parts of the gun and match them with a lighter colored (blonde) stock - just because I've always liked that look of a gun.

I've looked at some products on Brownell's (and I can't think of their name right now, and I can't look it up at work because our net-nanny blocks their site). They come in aerosol cans like spray paint and it appears that you spray it on (after preparing the metal) and then bake it for 15-30 minutes. I've also looked at some cold-blueing products. Both of these items have more good than bad reviews, but I was wondering if anybody on here has done any refinishing with any particular product.

I know that I could get a better result if I were to take it/send it somewhere that does this, but the rifle isn't worth that much to me. The products that I'm looking at cost less than $30, and that's about all I'm willing to put into it, besides my free time. I have no intentions of getting rid of the gun - I'm a collector and not a trader, so the effect on resale if it comes out looking awful is not a concern either - it can always just be another beater gun if it comes to that.

Anyway, I would love to hear if any of you guys have done something like this, what you used, and what your results were. Thanks for your help.

Good luck and take care.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I have tried cold blues several times, but the results were poor at best. I acknowledge that it's been a long time, and there may be better products available. I finally convinced myself if it was worth rebluing, it was worth a professional hot bath blue. As for the stock refinishing, I have done a fair amount of that...and here again, it depends on what kind of finish you want. I have used Tru-Oil and Tung oil for a fairly uncomplicated finish, and that is ok if that's what you want. If you want a professional finish, I can tell you how to do that, but it's pretty time consuming and requires a lot of sanding.

 

[davesl708]

I used cold blue on a shotgun 25 years ago. The prep and clean is critical to a good finish. Keep applying coats of bluing to get the depth and consistency you want. Spray a light coat of oil and let it rest for several weeks.

The finish is still good after years of hunting and cleaning. Attention to detail is critical to get a good finish. A lot of steel wool and polishing prior to application is where a lot of the time goes.

If time is the issue then get it hot blued.

 

[rtimgray]

Thanks for the quick replies. Time is not an issue at all. What's the best way to get what's left of the existing finish off? Steel wool? Sandpaper? Wire wheel?

I get that prep and clean would have a lot to do with it - because I have read that after I use whatever abrasive method to clean off old finishes, I need to wipe it down liberally with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol or acetone or brake cleaner or something, and once I think I have it completely clean - clean it again!

I've got some smaller pieces for it (rear sight assembly and triggerguard, magazine cover, etc. that I can practice with before it do the receiver and the barrel. I'm guessing that the barrel is the toughest to do, since it will be the most visible and also the longest piece. One consolation is that at least quite a bit of the barrel will be covered with the upper handguard, so if the finish is inconsistent from one end to the other, it might not be so noticeable.

Once again, thanks for the comments.

Good luck and take care.

 

[dusty3030]

DONT take the old finish off with any kind of abrasive! You'll never get it polished back where it will look right. You are better to leave the old finish in place.

Brownells Oxpho Blue is the best cold blue you can use on it.

Degrease, brake cleaner is as good as anything. Heat the metal some - some as in 100 to 150 degrees - it helps the finish "take". Buff the barrel with strips of an old cotton t shirt dipped in the solution. Keep working it until you get a good even finish then polish the finish with fine steel wool dipped in oil. Heat the parts or at least make sure they are warm and do it again.

Small parts you can pour a little in a plastic cup and just soak them in the oxpho blue.

 

[s219]

I re-blued a shotgun barrel many years ago, that had gotten rusty in a damp basement. Don't remember the brand of cold blue, other than it came in a glass jar with one of those wool applicators on a stick under the lid. It worked extremely well. At the time, I got the rust off with steel wool, and was careful to only rub around the barrel to preserve the look of the original brushed finish.

Interestingly, the receiver of the shotgun had more of a gold/blue pickled finish with a smooth polish, and did not rust. Only the barrel.

 

[rtimgray]

So should the existing finish be removed through chemical stripping means? I watched a couple of videos about it and the guys doing those said that it was important to remove all of the existing finish, along with any rust/grease/grime etc. One of them was using one of the cold blue kits that including cleaner/degreaser, then rust and blue remover, then you rinse and clean it with alcohol, then put on the layers of blue. His example came out looking really good, but I have a feeling that he had done it several times.

Once again, thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[dusty3030]

If it's an old Mauser and not pitted all up then I would not remove old finish if using Brownells oxphoblue
Call their tech line and they will walk you through it

 

[sld]

I have tried cold blues several times, but the results were poor at best. I acknowledge that it's been a long time, and there may be better products available. I finally convinced myself if it was worth rebluing, it was worth a professional hot bath blue. As for the stock refinishing, I have done a fair amount of that...and here again, it depends on what kind of finish you want. I have used Tru-Oil and Tung oil for a fairly uncomplicated finish, and that is ok if that's what you want. If you want a professional finish, I can tell you how to do that, but it's pretty time consuming and requires a lot of sanding.

I agree. I have refinished half a dozen shotguns and have always paid to have the metal professionally done. My favorite is an old 1187 that I sanded and re-cleared at least 20 times before I got it perfect. It is some shiny wood for sure! On others I like a duller stain only satin type finish.

 

[Will_C]

Refinishing-I have done several gun stocks through the years. With enough time and patience, I have seen some nice results using Tru-oil and other products.

I have also done some cold bluing on cheap guns. Stripping and degreasing are the most time consuming, messy parts. It takes several applications to get a squeaky clean gun before you apply the bluing. I wouldn't try this with a valuable gun.

Will