Any Septic Field installers out there?

[MapleLeafFarmer]

next spring I am going to install an above ground, pressure dosing sand mound septic field at my cabin.
I have the permit to install in hand and now just researching some of the specifics.

My question is about compacting the sand and loam material.

I realize each jurisdictions will have slightly different regulations but in your area how do YOU compact the 12" (or more) of loam material under the sand mound and the 12" (or more) of sand itself? (vibrating plate compactor? other?)

Cheers and thanks

 

[lockhaven]

I have a sand mound and as you say how they are installed varies. Mine had to be over undisturbed ground the sand was piled up with a loader then the pipe layed over the sand. dirt around the sides and on top. The installer did not have a compactor I do not know if any gravel was place around the pipes or not as I saw it started then complete so steps in the middle I missed. I do know that he used sand, he could have used lime stone screenings but said they would not last. He was correct mine is still functioning after 25 years while a neighbor that used the cheaper lime stone his failed after about 15 years

 

[Grn mtn boy]

Not in that line of work now but was for many years. I'll tell you how we had to install them (per the engineer as it needed to pass inspection) which may not be the same up your way.
Plow the area where the mound is going to be including under the slope on the lower and upper side of the fill area (throw the furrows down hill). Dig in your force main leaving from the pump chamber and toward the middle of your mound. Place a 90* fitting so that your force main is higher then the top of sand grade and then start to bring in your sand (ours needed to meet a certain sieve analysis). We could not use wheeled vehicles, tandem trucks would dump the sand on the edge of the plowed area and I'd push and grade it with a dozer. Contrary to other situations, you're trying to avoid compaction...the sand was never compacted intensionally (such as under a slab). Once your sand is placed and to grade you'll layout and dig your laterals which will be filled with stone. For us it was usually 12" of stone under the invert of the pipe and a couple of inches over it. Test, cover with fabric, spread top soil, and seed and mulch. Placing and working the material was all the compaction that was allowed. I know you'd think it would settle and i'm sure it does to an extent but that's how they're done here. Never had any issues with any of the mounds we did other then pump failures. Before I moved to a different line of work, mound designs were starting to replaced with a two stage treatment system which included a pre-treatment filter system (either a contained sand or filter medium) and then the effluent was collected and sent to a "at grade" system of pipes that were place right on top of the ground in a bed of stone.



Hope this helps, Chris.

 

[Beltzington]

Sounds like you are way paste this article but maybe it will help clarify what you are working on. I have unfit soil on my property for a typical drainage system and have been looking into the alternatives so I would be interested on what method you use and any lessons learned.

 

[Artisan]

sub'd

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

thanks all. 6 months of research before I have to start the work in the spring.

Where I am my soil sample came back 96% sand at 3' deep. Not a pebble or stone in site. I am in a pine forest that extends thousands sq. miles in every direction. nearest gas pump is 15 miles away, nearest school 50 miles away.

So the spec I need to make is:
- excavate 18" below grade a 2,000 sq foot area (with my new BH65 backhoe on a Kubota B2620_ love it!!)
- fill in excavation with loamy material
- 400 sq. foot 12" min depth sand mound using "graded" sand in the middle
- ontop of sand mound i place the infiltrator chambers which are 12" tall
- cover with min 12" sandy loam material again.


So I end up with a 36" min. hump in the middle of my 5a heavily treed lot.

going to cost me more to haul in graded sand and loam for this hill verus diesel fuel, time, pipes, tanks, chamber, pump combined (lol). Oh well at least it will make new code.

Cheers everyone for advice or pictures.

Bill

 

[Danno5o]

Hi I have a option for you that is approved in Manitoba and Ontario if that's where you are from and it has a smaller foot print plus treats sewer to 99% clean
It only needs a small sand bed and therefore reduces the costs of materials because you do not need to haul in the other materials. Your very high sand content in the soil test makes this a perfect project. I'm a licensed installer/ dealer distributer I'm looking at selling the product to help others get great water treatment results at a affordable price. I currently work with home owners so they can do the install them selves
If your ground water level is lower then 3 feet below surface all the time then we can actually place this totally in the ground and have no hill at all