Tiller Any words of advice on using my new Tiller......?

[bx24d]

I've had a Kubota BX 24 for 6 years and have a decent amount of attachments/implements (box scraper, brush hog, rake, some others) but now have taken delivery on a 3 point tiller (Landpride RTA 10-42). It has 42inch width and a slip clutch. I plan on using it on about 1600 sq. ft. vegetable garden area this year. About half of the area was hand tilled last year and the other half is virgin turf/meadow. In Connecticut, we have a lot of stones in the turf. Any words of wisdom or Tilling rules I should know about before I start the project?

 

[jonyyuma]

Don't till any tall grass. You might want to plow it first? It helps slow the wear on tiller blades, and turn out rocks.Try to eliminate all large rocks, watch for wire ,cages , or rebar. Lots of people have trouble have with these items.

 

[thomasalva]

We don't have any rocks so I can't help much with that, but I do have a couple of different tillers and have used them quite a bit. The main thing to keep in mind is that the tractor will Not be pulling the tiller, but rather the tiller will be pushing the tractor. So start out by traveling as slow as your tractor will allow until you get the feel, especially when breaking through turf since the tiller will have more traction than in previously tilled ground. When you get to the end of a row, either raise the tiller or just stop it from rotating or else you'll over-run your row. I pushed myself into a fence post last year by just clutching the tractor, thinking that would stop me like normal, but instead I shot forward since the tiller was still in the ground.

When breaking new ground I usually drop the tiller only three inches or so and then make another pass or two at full depth. On new ground there'll be a lot of weed seed turned, so it's a good idea to till it in the fall or at least early in the season and then till again after all the weed sprouts shoot up (before planting). For me, it usually takes two or three years to get ahead of the weed load. Look into drip-tape and plastic mulch if you have too much weed trouble.

The last thing to keep in mind which you probably already know is to avoid tilling if your ground is at all wet. After it dries the ground will be very hard and you'll have to till it again, and even worse you run the risk of destroying the natural tilth of the soil.

 

[Agrantina]

First pass on new ground start with the tail gate up. It will throw the rocks out --you didnt know where there... This way you can stop and get them out of the garden. Also for me- the first time I used my tiller the top link would slowly unscrew and the tiller would be tilted WAY backwards. Once I saw it I adjusted it level again and tightened the top link bolt good. That would have been a real screw up!! Last thing to check is your draw bar. If you have a ball hitch on it make sure that the drive shaft doesnt hit it. Once tilling the tiller will drop down about 6 inches so make sure you have good clearence. I backed my tractor over a dtich and dropped it down and checked the clearence....

AndyG

 

[TripleR]

I am certainly no expert on tilling, but last year I dropped the scarifiers all the way down and tilted my box blade forward and used it to break the sod up a bit before running my tiller and it worked pretty well as opposed to using my tiller alone.

 

[radioman]

yes- pull out your manual for the tiller and look up the section for slip clutch. chances are it might be a little too tight or rusted in place since it was never used and I bet it was stored outside before you got it.
Other the that, just check the fluids and hook up and go till.

Only way to make your tilling experience better is to run it and watch the result and make micro adjustments. For example: does your tiller has offset hookup? need to tighten, loosen the checkbolts? need to shorten or lengthen the toplink? does it track to one side? is it better to drive with front tires inside or outside of fresh tilled dirt as a guide? Is your draft control set for your liking for dropping tiller using high down or using quarter inching control? When it hits a rock or root, did you noticed the slipclutch working?

Ahhh too much to think about as a newbie :confused2::laughing:. Just hook up and go at it and have fun playing- err I mean tilling.

 

[nybirdman]

Round-up,break sod with box blade and till.In the North-East(rock fest) leave the discharge flap open at ALL times.Service your slip clutch EVERY YEAR.
Its not that difficult to service and will save you a lot of money and headaches later.
I do ten acres a year of garden and food plots.For a garden...plow in the fall and let lay dormant for the winter:makes it much easier the next spring.

 

[thomasalva]

Forgot to mention one other thing that radioman reminded me of. Since the tiller is pushing, it does like to swing left and right. I always use an adjustable stabilizer arm to keep it lined up, or otherwise you can end up with wiggly rows. One of these: Stabilizer Arm

 

[bilrus61]

For sure check your clutch. Till shallow the first pass then pick up any rocks. Till Deeper the second pass. Pick up rocks. Till with your back gate up. Go slow first pass. Check fluids if its from a dealer. Many times they miss doing the fluids. (or at least mine do.) Toss in some 10 10 10. Maybe some rabbit alfalfa pellets. Let it sit for a week and then till it again and plant your garden.

 

[ZDB]

Definately make sure your slip clutch is working. Mine was locked up solid this year and could have been a disaster if I hadn't done the yearly loosen and slip exercise.

Police the area well to make sure nothing is lying in wait to wind itself up in your tiller. Especially an old pool liner :-(

After your first pass on new ground, if its wet enough to form a solid soil ball its probably too wet to continue tilling. Let it dry out and it will yeild better results.

Have fun