Anybody ever use Panel Bonding Adhesive 3M 08115 or equivalent?

[QueBota]

Need to install a patch panel on the firewall of the Ford Ranger clutch R&R project truck.

Known problem in Ford trucks with manual mid 80's thru mid 90's. Firewall was too thin and would flex and fall apart resisting the action of the clutch pedal.

Welding a panel in will be difficult due to access and all of the flammable materials in the vicinity.

Did some initial research, seems lots of new cars are "glued" together as opposed to welding.

Thanks,
Q

 

[tcartwri]

The joint is supposed to be many times stronger than the base metal and... The repair does not rust.

Don't know if you can buy it in small quantities though.

 

[Mysfyt]

Look in McMasters website. I think it's called ultra high bond or something like that. There is also a double sided tape that will work if it makes sense.

 

[QueBota]

Amazon offers an approx 12 oz size, a bit pricey but worth it if it works. The catch is looks like you need to buy the applicator gun as well to use "properly".
It appears the gun mixes the two part epoxy into a single bead for application, could probably do without but it might come in handy. Not sure.

Amazon.com: 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml: Automotive

Thanks,
Q

 

[PILOON]

I'd be tempted to consider 'pop rivets' or a more rugged version based on similar concept.
Doubling the firewall in the weak area combined with some angle stock to spread the loading would do the tric.
Or again a 'patch' with folded edges attached with 'pop rivets' would do the trick.
Your 'patch' would sport say 3/4" flanges bent 90 deg. and probably a gauge thicker than the actual firewall.
That is the sort of re-enforcement we commonly used in aviation to carry loads.
POP or similar fasteners avoid and fire risks.

 

[QueBota]

I plan on fabricating patch panels inside and outside from an old trunk lid I have laying around. Thick enough to provide some strength, thin enough to be able to work. Have to get a least a few inches away from the hole where the clutch master cylinder goes through the firewall to get back to metal with some body left to it.
Similar concept to what you suggested. Going to make a sandwich with the epoxy between the patch panels inside and out. Not a lot of room for drill access to make holes for rivets or new nuts and bolts. Would remove the power brake vacuum boost cylinder for extra access but I'm afraid that is holding a good portion of the firewall together.

Lots of room on the inside behind the clutch and brake pedals. Going to place a large panel in there, that should help to resist most of the firewall flexing due to clutch pedal action. Going to place as large a panel as possible on the outside to back up the inside as much as possible.

Reviews on the 3M epoxy product look pretty good, hopefully it works well.

Knew the firewall was flexing, extent of problem became apparent when we removed the clutch master cylinder and matting from inside the cab. Can't put it back together without doing something.

Thanks,
Q

 

[QueBota]

Update my own thread, 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive works as advertised. Wouldn't use it for any load bearing applications but fine for body work where replacing panels/patching is in order. If you evaluate the pros/cons versus welding, in certain applications it can save time and money. Also saves worry regarding removal/shielding of flammable materials.

I joined some scrap pieces of body panel and some 16 gauge cold rolled steel I had lying around. Would be difficult in not impossible to separate.

Can see many applications for this product. I also "glued" together a broken clutch lever from my daughters dirt bike. Good as new, lever appears to be made from cast aluminum, would require experienced TIG welder to repair.

Once you drop the $$ for the "special" 3M application gun (quality piece) the cost of the epoxy and mixing tips is reasonable.

Norton makes a similar product, probably good as well. Prefer 3M, have always had good luck with their products.

Thanks,
Q