Anybody run Full Skip ?

[hslogger]

I see that Fred is in Oregon. 063.guage full skip is what timber cutters run, most often with square tooth. If you are using Stihl chain you will find it hard to hand file square. Round file is easier. Oregon chain is easy to file or grind. GENERALLY speaking the full skip is best in the fir and alder, and sorta rough in the oak, especially if you don't have 'er just right. More often than not, if a guy is just doing utility work, firewood, dirty work, semi skip round is a better way to go. Full comp is always a good bet for safety, especially with less experienced users. As you can see Full skip on your old '41 can really go through the wood. Just remember it IS a high kickback chain, and that is why it not ideal for general use. If you are running anything over 32" your saw really can't handle it. In the day we ran 041's for thinning and they were a good saw for that. If you stick a 24 or 28 inch bar on it you will really cut.

 

[s219]

S219 : You still have that chain ?? Any way to get pictures , That would be kind of cool to see .

Sure do -- I will try to grab a picture over the weekend.

 

[s219]

S219,
I finally figured out that we're talking about two different ways of grinding off half of the horozonal cutting edges. You meant that the horozinal edges were ground to half of their origonal width. On my chain, the horizonal part of the tooth was ground completely off on every other tooth on each side. Maybe that wouldn't total up to half of the teeth but, I thought it would. The way your chain is configured really is an interesting concept. I'd never thought about doing it that way.

I think that is very close to the chain I have, though they leave a little (and I mean little) of the flat part of the cutter there. The idea is to make the kerf with two outside cuts using the skinny cutters, and then the third "wide" one comes through and simply clears out the middle as a chip.

 

[s219]

Here's a diagram of that "Granberg" rip chain from their website:

 

[stuckmotor]

S219,
You're right. I forgot about the tiny bit of the horizonal left on the chain.

 

[FredH]

Cool Diagram !! That is interesting Thxs


Fred H.

 

[Tollster]

I did a MM to XP550 18" bar and running full skip in clean wood and mostly softwoods, I find the semi holds an edge better in dirty wood and hard wood.. Just my opinion, as a weekender..LOL

I'm running stihl chains, round tooth

 

[yomax4]

I bought some full skips to run on my 044. They cut super fast but didn't seem to stay sharp as long as the std. chains. They do sharpen up much quicker with the fewer teeth but seem to wear out faster too. I'm not sure of the benefit. Hard to argue with big chips but more frequent sharpening and replacement seems to be the norm.

 

[xring100]

Recently purchased a back up chain for my 441 Stihl . All the Dealer had in .063 was full skip , So I said " What the Heck , Why not " . Have not ran full skip since summer part time logging work in High School then a few years full time after High School in late '70's . Cutting up a log truck load of Hardwood I had delivered last spring , mostly madrone with a few oaks , any were from 8" to 24"+ in diameter .

Whoa Nellie , Now that is some Wood Cutting .:thumbsup: I have found my favorite chain to use now . Still kick myself thinking back when I sold my 041's , that I should of kept the 28" bar I had on one of them but the 25" on the 441 does the job .:cool2:

Fred H.

My ms660 36" came with a RSC full chisel chain first time I used it was on a 32" oak that had uprooted in a windstorm. We cut it back from the top. When we got to big part of the tree when I would get about 28-30" into the tree the bar would bind whenever I had full line contact. I Physically had to pull the saw free due to inadequate chip clearance it would pack in around the bar.
I used the chain once and ordered 2 loops of the RSF full chisel full skip chain no regrets. I also ordered 2 loops of RMF semi chisel full skip. Most of the big Oaks I've cut are hollow and full of junk. Semi chisels stay sharper longer in dirty wood

 

[xring100]

As someone else mentioned they also help out on underpowered saws but giving you more horsepower per tooth lets you maintain higher rpm without bogging down as easy. I don't have that problem with my 660 or 361

 

[s219]

Semi chisels stay sharper longer in dirty wood

Amen. I wish more people realized this -- I see so many people running full chisel on dirty wood and they'd be so much better off with semi.

 

[TomSeller]

Amen. I wish more people realized this -- I see so many people running full chisel on dirty wood and they'd be so much better off with semi.

I have always heard that but what is the reason they stay sharper in dirty wood?

 

[s219]

The sharp pointy corner on full chisel gets dulled very easily (probably more like dented on a microscopic scale). On semi, the rounded blunt corner is less vulnerable.

 

[TomSeller]

The sharp pointy corner on full chisel gets dulled very easily (probably more like dented on a microscopic scale). On semi, the rounded blunt corner is less vulnerable.

Okay, I believe this. But dirt is dirt and pointy corner or rounded corner I would think would be dulled the same.

 

[2458n]

I am running the 440 sthil with a 42 inch bar and the full chisel skip chain. Cutting large ash killed by the emerald ash bore bug. Runs well even with the saw tip buried in the log. It is like flipping a switch when the chain gets dull. Ripping it up and then your done cutting. By the time this happens you have usually cut enough wood that your ready for a break. My next chain will be a semi chisel so I can compare the two on the same saw. Right now I am happy with the full.

 

[motownbrowne]

Okay, I believe this. But dirt is dirt and pointy corner or rounded corner I would think would be dulled the same.

Couldn't tell you why myself, but it's true. Look at the chains used on harvesters and firewood processors, they're not even "semi" chisel, they're even more rounded for a longer lasting edge.

 

[TomSeller]

Couldn't tell you why myself, but it's true. Look at the chains used on harvesters and firewood processors, they're not even "semi" chisel, they're even more rounded for a longer lasting edge.

Ya, I know it is true. I am not questioning it, I just can't wrap my brain around as to why, never have been able to.

 

[s219]

I believe you can trace the same theory to how knifes and cutting tools are sharpened. Some are sharpened to a very fine sharp point, which is great for cutting but the point dents/bends easily (on a microscopic scale). Others are sharpened to a more blunt edge, and don't cut as well but are much more resistant to damage.

Same deal with the chainsaw cutters except the differences between full and semi are mainly at the corner.

Just look at the sharp point of the full chisel (when sharp, it's smaller than the tip of a sharp pencil) and visualize how the slightest damage will flatten off the point, leaving you with a dull flat spot right where the cutter first engages the wood. On semi, there is no single vulnerable point like that. The whole rounded corner of the cutter is available to engage the wood. Ding up a couple pencil-point-sized sections there and it's not the end of the world.

 

[Tollster]

I believe you can trace the same theory to how knifes and cutting tools are sharpened. Some are sharpened to a very fine sharp point, which is great for cutting but the point dents/bends easily (on a microscopic scale). Others are sharpened to a more blunt edge, and don't cut as well but are much more resistant to damage.

Same deal with the chainsaw cutters except the differences between full and semi are mainly at the corner.

Just look at the sharp point of the full chisel (when sharp, it's smaller than the tip of a sharp pencil) and visualize how the slightest damage will flatten off the point, leaving you with a dull flat spot right where the cutter first engages the wood. On semi, there is no single vulnerable point like that. The whole rounded corner of the cutter is available to engage the wood. Ding up a couple pencil-point-sized sections there and it's not the end of the world.

Good explanation

 

[TomSeller]

I believe you can trace the same theory to how knifes and cutting tools are sharpened. Some are sharpened to a very fine sharp point, which is great for cutting but the point dents/bends easily (on a microscopic scale). Others are sharpened to a more blunt edge, and don't cut as well but are much more resistant to damage.

Same deal with the chainsaw cutters except the differences between full and semi are mainly at the corner.

Just look at the sharp point of the full chisel (when sharp, it's smaller than the tip of a sharp pencil) and visualize how the slightest damage will flatten off the point, leaving you with a dull flat spot right where the cutter first engages the wood. On semi, there is no single vulnerable point like that. The whole rounded corner of the cutter is available to engage the wood. Ding up a couple pencil-point-sized sections there and it's not the end of the world.

Yes, very good explanation. Thank you.