I realize this thread is old, but let me add a few things here for future web searchers. We
are thinking of the same thing. A building large enough to house half-court games and
serve as garage and workshop. It is possible to have the spaces overlap (e.g., move the
cars for the court), but let's stick to just the court. It also matters how serious you want
to be. If you want your kids to play when in high school, and eventually have games with
kids and sons/daughters-in-law, then it cannot be a small after-thought of a hoop on the
wall. A court for hard-charging grown ups to have real fun is different than a court for kids.
Dimensions. Minimum of 40' wide by 36' long. A 40' wide building will have a smaller interior
dimension, and won't allow a full 3 pt. arc at the corners. But, this should be sufficient, and
is a common dimension for builders. 44' wide would be better. 36' long will allow a large
overhang of the backboard and room for 3 pt. shots. Do not screw the back board right
into the wall. It should overhang into the court at least 3' from the wall, preferably more.
Ceiling ht. 20-25' at center is good, but don't forget that the highest part of a shot's arc
from the corner will not be over the center of the hoop. The majority of the ceiling height
needs to be pretty high. Most people mount the hoop on the gable end, but if the building
is wide enough you may be better off mounting it on the eave side.
The best way to accomplish the dimensions and ceiling height, in my tons of estimates, is with
a metal frame building. I would not go with a conventional pole barn. I've got estimates
from small and large builders, and the only way they can get the ceiling height is with super high
walls. Perhaps not a concern, but such a building is not attractive in my neighborhood.
Standard scissor trusses have a bottom chord too low, and fancy gambrel trusses that
do not require collar ties are bulky and expensive. I've yet to find a pole barn builder
willing to devise up some parallel chord trusses or inverted scissor trusses that would
work. I know it can be done, but ya' gotta go with what they know.
Thus, we came to the conclusion that the best solution would be a web steel frame,
like Perka. Best would be a gambrel steel web truss, or simply a higher pitch. We
determined that a 6:12 pitch on a 40' wide building with 12' eave heights would work
and would be our minimum standard. A gambrel steel web truss would put the center of the
building at about 25', with sufficiently high ceilings at peak arc points. Alternately, check
out wood frame builders like Eagle Rigid Span or Starwood Rafters.
A concrete floor will work -- don't make it toooo smooth. It can be painted or stained.
There are options for floor tiles. Expensive, but very cool. Make the building with lots of
light. White ceilings, light color walls, good lighting. This is especially true if you want to
do some batting. A web search of fancy (expensive) homes with barn style basketball
courts will reveal awesome-looking timber frame buildings and wood interiors. Awesome
looking, crummy for basketball or any other sports.
Get a good backboard. Spend the extra $1000 for a full size clear (glass/acylic) backboard
with break-away rim. This will make all the difference. Really. Similarly, take the time to
paint the key and 3 pt arc. Or, put down tape.
Our estimate for a steel frame 6:12 pitch, 40 x 60, concrete work, 2 eave side garage
doors, about 10 windows, metal roof with thermax insulation, zip system walls with vinyl
siding, a couple of walk doors, moderate insulation, and THEY build it, was about $55K.
We don't have $55K. If we cannot build this we will likely build a nice outdoor court on
the driveway (currently gravel). The outdoor court, with nice landscaping, may cost
about $15-20K. But, still no garage!
Hope this helps.
