Anyone know a where can buy Iseki clutch engagement assembly ?

[Edorrjr]

Have early 80s Bolens Iseki g152 tx2140t that the clutch engagement assembly is hitting the clutch plate at the bottom. Can稚 adjust it without engaging clutch bearing. Looking at the pieces there is a lot of slop in it This seems to be enough to cause it to vibrate and hit spring covers. Anyone know who might stock or sell these pieces ? Im looking at having someone well in bushings to tighten up slop. Need the rod and fork and bearing holder. Pics attached

 

[fxrs55]

Before you buy anything check your pressure plate.
there is a castle nut on each of the three fingers. look at
the pictures below and you will see that the nuts on your plate
are backed out to far and they are also missing a cotter pin
that keeps the nuts from backing off. by tightening the nuts
will bring the fingers up closer to the release bearing and then
the clutch will disengage before hitting the clutch disk and spring
covers. I have been there and done that. After you get the
castle nuts adjusted tighter add a cotter pin to each one.
you may need to readjust the clutch linkage from the pedal also
because I think it has been adjusted to compensate for the loose
nuts on the pressure plate.

 

[chrismac]

I have a spare one, but your probably not in the UK.

Chris

 

[pratonda27]

CLUTCH kit for ISEKI TX13, TX141, TX15, TX151, TX214, TX216 TRACTORS | eBay

 

[Edorrjr]

Before you buy anything check your pressure plate.
there is a castle nut on each of the three fingers. look at
the pictures below and you will see that the nuts on your plate
are backed out to far and they are also missing a cotter pin
that keeps the nuts from backing off. by tightening the nuts
will bring the fingers up closer to the release bearing and then
the clutch will disengage before hitting the clutch disk and spring
covers. I have been there and done that. After you get the
castle nuts adjusted tighter add a cotter pin to each one.
you may need to readjust the clutch linkage from the pedal also
because I think it has been adjusted to compensate for the loose
nuts on the pressure plate.

Ok. Trying to make sense of why this would fix the spring covers from hitting the bottom of the clutch fork. By tightening this I push the clutch bearing back which pushes the bottom of the fork more forward. I can adjust the linkage back but it will have to be a tight fit. I can definitely tighten those. Is there a spec? Torque or distance? Not seeing a hole in the stud but these are small bolts. My neighbor rebuilds large airend compressors and deals with extremely small tolerances and is going to do some welding and put in bushing on that assembly and should help. But want this fixed as not helping out on the farm. Thanks and look forward to your response

 

[fxrs55]

if you tighten the nut down on the 3 fingers it will cause the finger to
pivot out away from the clutch disk and they would be closer
to the release bearing assembly. that is a good thing because
the clutch will disengage before the fork hits the spring covers.
where your fingers are now they are already close to the clutch disk
so in order to get the clutch to disengage the release bearing assembly
has to come out of bell housing farther and consequently it is now
going to hit the spring covers. Tightening the nuts down will
pivot the fingers closer to the release bearing and shorten the
distance the bearing needs to come forward and that stops
the fork before hitting the spring covers. Check picture below.

 

[Edorrjr]

if you tighten the nut down on the 3 fingers it will cause the finger to
pivot out away from the clutch disk and they would be closer
to the release bearing assembly. that is a good thing because
the clutch will disengage before the fork hits the spring covers.
where your fingers are now they are already close to the clutch disk
so in order to get the clutch to disengage the release bearing assembly
has to come out of bell housing farther and consequently it is now
going to hit the spring covers. Tightening the nuts down will
pivot the fingers closer to the release bearing and shorten the
distance the bearing needs to come forward and that stops
the fork before hitting the spring covers. Check picture below.

Understood

Is there a spec for that? I see the gauge there and wondering what it should be distance wise or tourque spec? Or just tighten until they stop moving out?

 

[fxrs55]

I don't know of a spec for that. I measured from the edge of the bell housing
to the release bearing and I tightened the nuts down until I got
that measurement from the back of the engine to the fingers
using a depth micrometer. I measured from the block because
that is where the bell housing will be bolted to. I then bolted
the two halves back together and opps there was no clearance
between the fingers and the release bearing and tat meant that
the release bearing would always be spinning when engine
was running. I was not able to back off the clutch linkage enough
to have a gap between the fingers and release bearing.
So I had to split the tractor again and loosen the nuts on the fingers.
I ended up with around 2 threads above the nuts. I was also able to put the cotter
pins in. The nuts on your plate are right on the edge of
coming off. I am surprised they didn't come off.
All of the new pressure plates I looked at were adjusted with one to 2
threads showing above the nut. I would tighten yours until you
had at least 1 thread but no more than 2 threads above the nut and at that
point you should be able to see the holes for the
cotter pins.

 

[lens12]

I can supply clutch parts.

 

[Edorrjr]

I don't know of a spec for that. I measured from the edge of the bell housing
to the release bearing and I tightened the nuts down until I got
that measurement from the back of the engine to the fingers
using a depth micrometer. I measured from the block because
that is where the bell housing will be bolted to. I then bolted
the two halves back together and opps there was no clearance
between the fingers and the release bearing and tat meant that
the release bearing would always be spinning when engine
was running. I was not able to back off the clutch linkage enough
to have a gap between the fingers and release bearing.
So I had to split the tractor again and loosen the nuts on the fingers.
I ended up with around 2 threads above the nuts. I was also able to put the cotter
pins in. The nuts on your plate are right on the edge of
coming off. I am surprised they didn't come off.
All of the new pressure plates I looked at were adjusted with one to 2
threads showing above the nut. I would tighten yours until you
had at least 1 thread but no more than 2 threads above the nut and at that
point you should be able to see the holes for the
cotter pins.

For those who find this thread someday m

I had the slop taken out of the throw out linkage assembly by brazing it and reinforce the holder. Slide tight and smooth.
Something still not right about clutch assembly and 1 of bolts was chewed and couldn稚 adjust it. So bought a whole assembly on eBay for $180. It didn稚 have cotter pins either but looks like they were crimped. Install med it and put a bushing on the pedal to linkage too and works like a champ. No issues.