Snow Anyone used Kubota's electric chute rotator or deflector kits?

[RRbota]

I'm in the process of wiring up some aux lights for my 2620. I would like to make the install as clean as possible, so splicing into the factory wiring harness is last on my list.

I'm thinking that the factory must use existing points to power their options, like their chute rotator or deflector. Where do they have you tying in to for 12v key-switched power?? As previously mentioned, I would prefer not not have to splice into the factory harness if there's another option.

Right now I'm looking at getting some kind of terminal "spade" that could fit into the backside of the fuse box. But if someone has already done something like this, they may know of a better way....

Thanks,
- - Rob

 

[cubowner]

I have not used the oem kits but take a look at my earlier post on ho I hooked mine up. I went right to the battery with power and then used trailer plugs for quick disconnects at the blower and at my remote that I built to control the chute.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/225461-bx2750-chute-control.html

 

[RRbota]

Thanks for the tip, cubowner. I have a couple trailer wiring kits sitting around that I was planning on utilizing for their plugs.

The thing that is stumping me is finding an easy place to tap into key-switched power without having to cut and splice the existing factory harness. Going in to the back side of the fusebox looks promising, but I'm having a hard time finding the right sized spades, or wire ends, which would mean that I'm back to cutting and splicing the factory harness.

Thanks,
- - Rob

 

[cubowner]

For power just tap in to the battery directly with a fuse in line.

 

[RRbota]

I have a fused power wire from the battery. That will go to a terminal on the relay I'm installing. I also need a wire with switched power, so that turning off the key will turn everything off. That's where I'm stuck.

 

[JoeL4330]

google on "piggy back fuse" and you will find an easy way to "duplex" any key-switched circuit right at your fuse block.

 

[RRbota]

Thanks for the piggy-back fuse tip. That's along the lines of what I had in mind.

 

[irvingj]

My tractor's M-F, but uses the same (RAD) blower Kubota uses; I also have the electric chute controls, which were installed by the dealer.

No harness tap point-- they just wired right off the battery with fused lines, and didn't go through the key at all-- alwyas hot. Rubber-coated switches were mounted in the dash. I just take care not to hit the switches unintentionally.

I did add a flat-four connector, however, so I could remove the electrical harness for the blower when I take it off.

 

[crazyal]

For the lights I mounted to my ROPS I used the factory connector near the seat for a work light. It's on it's own 10 amp fuse. I would guess you should also have the connector.