Asphalt for storing hay

[slowzuki]

I think the big problem people have is where the water is coming from:

As Eddie said, concrete at less than condensing temp, the water is coming from the air.

If you get water and the concrete is higher than condensing temp, its coming from the ground.

Normally the air inside a heated space can carry away moisture fast enough that the top of a slab will look dry even if it is carrying a pile of water. It is still pumping water into the dwelling though.

A vapour barrier is not meant to stop water. Uncracked concrete is water impermeable but not vapour impermeable.

 

[jejennings]

I'm building a new hay barn now, and have been trying to figure out the best floor too. From what I understand, any moisture coming up from the ground can be blocked with a plastic vapor barrier. However, there is still some moisture left in the hay, and that is why concrete even with a vapor barrier isn't the best since the bottom of the hay can't breathe. I was told that you can get a coarse grade of asphalt, similar to the stuff used in base layers of roads, that has minimal fines and is therefore very porous. As long as the aspahalt is covered under the roof, I don't think the heat would soften it that much. Other option is crushed stone, but I would think that would become a mess eventually with loose hay mixed in. I'll be using a bale wagon, so pallets aren't a possibility.

I am presently sending out quote requests for a 18' x 50' x 112' hay barn in which I plan to pour a concrete floor. I am fully aware of the problems of condensation from storing bales in trailers and containers. I just bought a NH 1037 Stacker wagon and was wondering if anyone had considered or tried:
1. Laying down 4" x 4" x 8' fence posts before tipping a load in the barn?
2. Sliding pallets over the forks of the sliding rack so that when the load
is tipped and pushed off, it will be sitting on the pallets?

Jack

 

[threeman]

I built a new hay barn this year myself. I needed to use some fill to keep water from running underneath one end, it was built in a lower corner of the property. Kind of out of the way so to speak. I used a plastic vapor barrior (visquine(?) to keep moisture from seeping up through the dirt just as you would with concrete. So far its powder dry underneath the barn and we have just have a flood in last few weeks. Round rolls are sitting right on the dirt with no wet spots. I used to use pallets but it still molds even sitting on them because the air is damp underneath the pallets. So I decided to not use them in the new barn for rolls and squares.

I also used "crush and run" basically ground concrete once before. It didnt work either. Its mostly large pieces of gravel, from powder to about size of railroad rock, but it would mold with hay stacked on it just as bad as the dirt.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I am presently sending out quote requests for a 18' x 50' x 112' hay barn in which I plan to pour a concrete floor. I am fully aware of the problems of condensation from storing bales in trailers and containers. I just bought a NH 1037 Stacker wagon and was wondering if anyone had considered or tried:
1. Laying down 4" x 4" x 8' fence posts before tipping a load in the barn?
2. Sliding pallets over the forks of the sliding rack so that when the load
is tipped and pushed off, it will be sitting on the pallets?

Jack

I have talked to other guys who built up pallets to fit their stack wagons. The downside to the pallets on the stack wagon is it slows you down. You have to mess around putting on a new pallet every time you unload plus you have to build the pallets which takes time and money. The bottom line is it has been done but it slows down the stack wagon and you have a bunch of pallets to contend with and handle.

 

[threeman]

pallets are a pain in the rear and they really dont save us any hay

 

[jimmysisson]

jejennings, you'll be pleased with yourself later if you spring for 1" of blue foam under the slab, I promise. Much less sweating, and no capillary action. Usually it's about 50 cents a sq. ft., so $2,800 plus labor for you. You might be able to get it cheaper in that large a quantity.
I guess you can curse a lot (of condensation) for that amount of money, but it sure is hard to put foam under a slab after it's poured.
Jim