Asphalt sealers

   / Asphalt sealers #1  

_RaT_

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Apr 19, 2000
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Location
Peoples Republic of Northern CA.
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Kioti 3510-SE HST
Any comments about who makes a great sealer for my asphalt driveway. Are some better then others?
Do you seal yours?
 
   / Asphalt sealers #2  
I have stone now so I dont seal anything /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I used to do it for a living and the only thing I can think of is make sure you get a coal tar emulsion type sealer. Anything else is paint. Brush it in to the little imperfections with a broom. You can make a swirly patteren with it if you want. If th imperfections are deep, add fine sand to your mix.
 
   / Asphalt sealers #3  
The best would be a hot tack spray covered with sand/chips and rolled. Takes a contractor for proper equipment To do this.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Asphalt sealers #4  
Lots of county roads get a "chip seal" like Egon mentioned.

Lasts a few of years in our temperate climate so you shouldn't be to far from the same.
 
   / Asphalt sealers #5  
You know, I've wondered about this for a while - why do people seal a residential driveway? (other than for that nice black appearance) They don't seal asphalt roads, and those are expected to last for decades, under considerably more traffic than a driveway..........
 
   / Asphalt sealers #7  
Hmmm . . . makes me wonder if I should just spray all my used Diesel oil over my driveway. Between the truck and the tractor I have lots of it.

Probably not environmentally friendly though.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Asphalt sealers #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( spray all my used Diesel oil )</font>

Asphalt is a bituminous based product. Parrifin based petroleums like diesel, motor oil etc. will dissolve the asphalt and leave you with a gravel drive! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The article refered to in the one post may be lacking some data.

Egon
 
   / Asphalt sealers #9  
You seal a asphalt driveway so that it lasts AND to make it a uniform color.

The asphalt wears off the stone and water can get between the stones and to the base. This will crack the asphalt. It will crack faster if you are in a freeze thaw area. If you have ever seen "alligator back" cracks on a drive way that is water getting through to a (mostly) pocket of clay.

Tar and chip is basicly a road way seal coat. It, like a coal tar emulsion, bonds with the asphalt and fills the cracks. It gives you a few more years.

A good crack filler is something to get before you seal because the whole idea is to fill the cracks. The sealer fills the ones you really dont notice and the filler does the big ones.

That help?

The only things you really need is a coal tar emulsion and a one time use broom to brush it in. Add a crack filler if needed.
 
   / Asphalt sealers #10  
I design and research highway pavements for a living, and most of the arguments for driveway sealing sound like BS to me.

If you don't have a free-draining material underneath the asphalt, then that material will get wet no matter how well-sealed the asphalt is. Think of a tarp left on a lawn overnight - it gets wet underneath because it's a barier to the moisture coming out of the ground. An asphalt pavement works the same way. Water will get underneath a pavement whether it comes up from below or down from above - the critical thing is having a way to drain that moisture away.

Asphalt will oxidize and get hard from UV exposure leading to thermal cracking and poor bonding between the asphalt binder and aggregate. This problem is more severe on pavements that don't get much traffic. The reason for this is poorly understood. Many people think that the kneading action of tires slows down or reverses the oxidation process. The oxidized layer doesn't wear away as many sealant manufaturers claim, though.

On highways, asphalt pavements that become oxidized are usually treated with a thin overlay of asphalt concrete, or a surface treatment such as the "tar and chip" that was mentioned ("tar and chip" is a misnomer because in the US at least the binder is an asphalt emulsion, not tar) - other common surface treatments are fog seals (like chip seals but using sand instead of stone), slurry seals and micropaving. Generally, though, highway pavements run into other problems before they get heavily oxidized.

So, I think that the only advantage to sealing a driveway is to protect the asphalt from oxidation. I do not think that any of the sealing products actually reverse the oxidation process. Any sealant should be as good as any other, provided it blocks UV light, though some will undoubtably last longer than others.

As mentioned in a previous reply, spraying asphalt with diesel is not a good idea. Asphalt is refined from petroleum oil, and will disolve in other petrolem products. The diesel will evaporate back out, but in the process may break the bond between the asphalt and aggregate.

I don't know why one would use a coal tar emulsion instead of an asphalt emulsion for sealing. Both tar and asphalt are industrial waste products - asphalt is the gunk in the bottom of the still when all of the good stuff has been distilled out of crude oil. Tar is the gunk you get when coal (or other organic material) is destructively distilled into coke and coal gas. Tar is rarely used in highways in the US because it is very temperature suseptible - meaning that it gets sticky on hot days and brittle on cold days. Tar is cheaper than asphalt, which is probably why it's used on driveways. Both Tar and Asphalt are classified as "Bitumens", although Commonwealth English speakers will often use "Bitumen" and "Asphalt" interchangeably.
 

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