Augers - Going from 3pt to hydraulic

[muckdp]

I've had a 3pt auger for a long time, and been what I would consider "barely satisfied" with it. It does the job, but not with finesse. My biggest complaint is that a 6 inch hole has a way of turning into a 12", and a 12" has a way of turning into an 18".

I just sold my 3 pt, and I'm buying a hydraulic auger, which fits the flow requirements of my Yanmar Vio35 mini ex, and my kubota M5040 (It's a premier MD12). I use a lot of 3" oilfield pipe.
My question is whether a hydraulic auger on the loader of a tractor, or the arm of an excavator is as likely to make oversized holes like I've experienced on my 3pt.

I'm trying to decide if I should get a 4" auger, or a 6" auger, if my goal is to end up with a 6" hole.

Practical experience, and realworld feedback appreciated.

 

[aczlan]

Both are likely to move some (forward and back) as you lower the bucket or boom.
This can be counteracted by slightly moving the tractor/excavator forward or backwards, or bringing the stick in or out so that the auger stays vertical.
If you want you go perfectly straight up and down, you almost need to build something like a forklift mast that mounts on the loader bucket to run the hydraulic motor up and down.

Aaron Z

 

[CoyPatton]

Your issue with your 3PH auger which the arc that happens has you lift and lower will carry over to loader as it also travels in a arc. You can combat the arc effect some buy moving the tractor, but often the auger has started at an angle by the time you realize it is not straight and like with a drill bit in wood or metal when this happens, the too of the hole ends up being bigger than you desire.
Sorry I have no real world experience with an auger on a mini ex. But from having dug a few holes and trenches with mini ex’s, I suspect the same arc effect will be present.

 

[robstaples]

I have a hydraulic auger and used it once so far to turn in a tower anchor. Mine is heavy on a fel mount. K L39 I backed up just a little as it went it. My anchor was 5ft. My bits are 4ft, I think , so there isn’t a lot of arc . If the hole is important, I’d strap a 10 ft stick on the auger and move to keep it plumb. Or have a watch person to direct. If you hit a rock , it’s going to get bigger. I bought mine to drill new mail box posts for all my neighbors after the road was refinished. Still waiting for that!

 

[CoyPatton]

I have a hydraulic auger and used it once so far to turn in a tower anchor. Mine is heavy on a fel mount. K L39 I backed up just a little as it went it. My anchor was 5ft. My bits are 4ft, I think , so there isn’t a lot of arc . If the hole is important, I’d strap a 10 ft stick on the auger and move to keep it plumb. Or have a watch person to direct. If you hit a rock , it’s going to get bigger. I bought mine to drill new mail box posts for all my neighbors after the road was refinished. Still waiting for that!

There is some or you would not need to move to keep it straight.

 

[dsb5610]

I've drilled lots of holes with my hydraulic auger. I've shaved the side of a number of holes too. Accuracy depends on the soil type, slope and whether you can keep the auger plump.

3" pipe in a 6" hole does not leave much wiggle room. I have no experience with them but wondering if a post pounder would be a better solution.

dsb

 

[jmc]

Long shot but it sounds like your hole is oversized but still round, rather than just oversized in the oblong direction like you would get from the arc effect. Could your auger tip be eccentric to the auger's diameter?

Or could the auger be bent? (I'd roll it across the floor and see what happens)

 

[Fallon]

Over got similar results with my hydraulic SSQA auger as I got with my former 3pt. I really haven't had much oversize issues with holes unless I tried. You have to go slow & bump the tractor forward or back a hair as you drop into the hole. HST makes it way easier. I'm guessing other soil types may waller out easier than our clay though.