Automatic waterer in barns

[jwstewar]

We are building a new barn for our bucks. I've run the water line and put a frost free hydrant in. Looking to add automatic waterers.

What I did in the current barn, I have a water line that I ran to the milk room that is heated (and cooled). From there I ran that out to the barn area to all of the automatic waters (5 of them). When it comes winter time. I shut the water off in the milk room, disconnect the automatic waters and let the lines drain.

In the new barn I won't have a heated area to do my drain to. Easiest approach is to just attach a "Y" to the hydrant and leave the hydrant on all of the time. That is certainly possible, but I've been told (don't know for sure) that it is bad to leave the hydrants on all of the time.

I've thought about tapping into the line that supplies the hydrant and bringing it up out of the ground for a bit and wrapping it with heat tape, but I don't like that should we lose power.

Anyone else have any thoughts on how to run a water line in an unheated barn?​

 

[suburbanfarmer]

Just an idea, dont know if it will work.
Put a 275 gallon IBC tote in, fill it up and then drop in a heater or 2. Like a floating and sinking one. Fill it back up when its down to a quarter left.
Wrap the lines with heated wire to prevent freezing the lines..

 

[drssg]

I used Nelson automatic waterers in my barn. There is a lot of underground infrastructure to run the water and electric for each waterer, but it’s very nice when it’s done.

 

[jaxs]

It doesn't hurt to leave a frostproof hydrant on 24/7 unless it's below 32f,in which case it will freeze and burst. You should be able to handle it same as you do in present barn. The differences are,cut off is below ground instead of heated space,hose automaitcly drains through foot of hydrant each time hydrant is turned off. Another option is a stop&waste valve below ground with supplies going to stalls. You can lift lid on valve box to reach down and operate valve or you can extend rod above ground to operate valve without messing with lid.

 

[grsthegreat]

Dig to base of hydrant and tee off underground that way it is protected and on all the time. Then run water underground to heated waterers. I have 5 done that way. All my pipes and electrical are 4 feet underground (North idaho afterall) and they come up they are in a 4 in x 5 foot long poly pipe. That way I’m using subsoil ground temp to protect pipes coming up thru earth. I also added thermally protected heat tape to be safe. My current system is attached to my whole house generator so it cannot possibly freeze. About 4 years ago we had 4 day power outage during thanksgiving. My barn water started to freeze. That is when I added barn to generator system.

 

[jwstewar]

Good thoughts. Still reading and thinking.

I guess I should clarify. For winter time use, I will drain the water lines and remove the automatic waterers. We will then just used heated buckets in the winter. So I'm looking for a way to run the water in the summer, but be able to turn it off for winter.

 

[jaxs]

Good thoughts. Still reading and thinking.

I guess I should clarify. For winter time use, I will drain the water lines and remove the automatic waterers. We will then just used heated buckets in the winter. So I'm looking for a way to run the water in the summer, but be able to turn it off for winter.

Someone said in an earlier post "You should be able to handle it same as you do in present barn." Then went on to suggest a stop&waste valve to turn water off and drain system for the winter. Is there some reason that doesn't forfill your need at minimum cost?

 

[jwstewar]

Someone said in an earlier post "You should be able to handle it same as you do in present barn." Then went on to suggest a stop&waste valve to turn water off and drain system for the winter. Is there some reason that doesn't forfill your need at minimum cost?

Because the place the water is turned off in the current barn is in the milk room, so the "source" is in a heated area. So the valve is just under the sink in the milk room. Once turn off, I open another valve that I put a flex hose on and let it run to the floor drain. So in this case, unless I use heat tape, frost free hydrant, underground valve, or ?????? That is my dilemma. Easiest and cheapest solution is just to put a "Y" on the hydrant and leave it on all of the time. But, again, I was told that isn't a good idea. Maybe that is the solution and I'm just over thinking it.

 

[jaxs]

Because the place the water is turned off in the current barn is in the milk room, so the "source" is in a heated area. So the valve is just under the sink in the milk room. Once turn off, I open another valve that I put a flex hose on and let it run to the floor drain. So in this case, unless I use heat tape, frost free hydrant, underground valve, or ?????? That is my dilemma. Easiest and cheapest solution is just to put a "Y" on the hydrant and leave it on all of the time. But, again, I was told that isn't a good idea. Maybe that is the solution and I'm just over thinking it.

Call it what you will but it's quite simple.

Underground supply from meter to barn stay's on 365/24/7
Y the supply underground near stalls to feed branch #1 and branch #2
Branch #1 is only 2' long and connected to freeze proof yard hydrant from Northern Tool + Equipment
That take's care of water for buckets in winter. Hydrant can stay on with hose connected any time and as long as desired EXCEPT DURING FREEZING WEATHER,at which time hose must be disconnected and hydrant turned off when not filling buckets.
Branch #2 extend's 2' from Y where it enter's underground valve box with stop & waste valve and 2' deep gravel bed beneath. From stop & waste,line extends to and branches to auto waters in stalls. Branch #2 stay's on 24/7 during above freezing weather. As freezing weather approaches,stop & waste is manually turned off and branch #2 including auto waterer lines automaticly drain's into gravel bed beneath stop & waste.

 

[jwstewar]

Call it what you will but it's quite simple.

Underground supply from meter to barn stay's on 365/24/7
Y the supply underground near stalls to feed branch #1 and branch #2
Branch #1 is only 2' long and connected to freeze proof yard hydrant from Northern Tool + Equipment
That take's care of water for buckets in winter. Hydrant can stay on with hose connected any time and as long as desired EXCEPT DURING FREEZING WEATHER,at which time hose must be disconnected and hydrant turned off when not filling buckets.
Branch #2 extend's 2' from Y where it enter's underground valve box with stop & waste valve and 2' deep gravel bed beneath. From stop & waste,line extends to and branches to auto waters in stalls. Branch #2 stay's on 24/7 during above freezing weather. As freezing weather approaches,stop & waste is manually turned off and branch #2 including auto waterer lines automaticly drain's into gravel bed beneath stop & waste.

This is good info right here. I've never heard of stop and waste valve. I need to look that one up. Thank you.