[B]John Deere 5105 with AWD does not have 3-Point Draft feature[B]

[texstrk426]

My John Deere 5105 with All-Wheel-Drive does not have the 3-Point hitch draft feature. I was looking though the owner's manual and the pictures which describe the draft feature versus the ones without the draft feature. Ones with the draft feature have two levers at the driver's right side to control the 3-Point hitch system. The ones without the draft feature have two levers to operate the 3-Point system. My tractor definitely only has one lever.

What I am wondering is, is it possible to add the draft system to an existing tractor that does not have the draft feature?

I have a John Deere 613 mowing attachment that I bought for use with the 5105 tractor a few years after I bought the tractor. Ever since I have been using the 613 mowing attachment I have been periodically bending the support arms on the mowing attachment. Now the pivot pin on the brracket where the lower 3-Point arms attach has cracked the bracket. My property is uneven enough that the front of the mowing attachment often wants to rise above where the 3-Point hitch was set and results in the bending of the mowing attachment parts.

One of my friends who has been into farming for years mentioned that there was an attachment called a "Rooster's Comb" that was made for mowing attachments when used with tractors without draft feature built into their 3-Point hitch system. That might be a possible solution.

Ideas? Suggestions? Do any of you know of a supplier for the "Rooster's Comb" device?

Joe

 

[LouNY]

I have not used one, I do belive it you scroll down to the pictures on this thread it may be pictured;Mower Height Stabilizer - Ford 9N, 2N, 8N Forum - Yesterday's Tractors

That said I do not see were draft control would lift a mower much different then position control.

 

[ovrszd]

Lou is right. Draft control is normally used to control maximum depth not maximum height.

I've never heard of adding Draft Control to a tractor but I'm sure it could be done if you can swallow the cost.

You didn't say but I'm guessing your tractor is an "E" model??

 

[texstrk426]

Richard and Lou;

It would work well if I had the ability to set the high and the mower would drop to some lower level while mowing if the terrain dropped. Since I have never had the draft feature, I had no understanding of how it operated.:duh: I did find the Ford 8N, 9N discussion. From what I have read about the device, It might work, but the item seems to be as rare as "hen's teeth" these days (pun intended).:laughing:

I have a suspicion that adding draft control to a tractor like mine would be more expensive than the benefit(s). I may be watching for a different larger tractor complete with a cab and AC at an auction. My friend is good at spotting good deals on used equipment there. Once this virus thing is finished, I plan to start going with him to auctions and learning more about different tractors and features.

Joe

 

[hosspuller]

Have you set the draft links to float vertically ? Look at the pin that connects the draft link (arms) at about the center. It should allow the arms to raise about 4 inches.

 

[texstrk426]

hosspuller;

I don't understand. Could you show a picture and point to the parts you mentioned? Are you calling the two lower arms of the 3-point hitch draft arms? Or are you talking about the top adjustable arm? My tractor does not have the "draft" feature, just the ability to raise and lower the two lower arms and of course the upper center link follows along with the lower arm movement.

Joe

 

[joecdeere]

draft controls are for ground engaging implements ie plows, not mowers, for what it's worth, the rockshaft housing alone that has to be changed is right at $3,000 with nothing in it,

as far as your problem, you are simply exceeding the travel of the hitch, you either need to come at a trouble area at a different angle so the mower isn't forced up at such an extreme angle
another possibility is to use a chain as a top link, but even that can cause issues if the rear is forced too high (driveline failure is one)

 

[texstrk426]

joecdere;

Actually, I had used a chain where you suggested several years ago. That is what was on there when the bracket cracked. My property does have some ditches that my son went straight across multiple times. I was at fault for not explaining to my son all the details of the lay of the land and the pattern I used in mowing the property in order to minimize the up and down forces being applied to the hitch and mowing attachment. Unfortunately he began the mowing of the property without my knowledge the day that the damage was done to the mowing attachment. So part of the problem that developed was due to lack of communication. I am getting older and not able to do as much as I used to do. I am now 77 years old. The times that the mowing attachment has had problems has been when I was not at the controls. I do try to instruct as much as I can, but younger people often think they know better. The lack of understanding about the forces involved by my son and my son-in-law is indeed part of the problem. Using the chain to allow for more up-down flexibility plus the pattern of mowing to avoid going across ditches at 90 degree attack had worked pretty well for me.

I first thought I would hire a welder to repair the cracked open hole at the top of the forward bracket of the mowing unit. I looked at it closer today with my friend and there are two lower holes for the attachment pins used by the lower hitch arms that I can use without having the bracket welded and reinforced. That is the least costly method to get the mower operational again.The other bent parts will have to be straightened. and parts checked for any other damage. The PTO shaft has already been replaced after one of the universal joints failed (yoke cracked at one end). That was after more than 10 years of use by me and then others began to drive the tractor. My son-in-law is no longer in the picture as there was a divorce. I will have to explain in detail to my son about the issues associated with mowing the property such as the locations of the ditches on the property and how to properly approach mowing those areas.

It may be that the mowing attachment will have to be set up to mow the grass and weeds at a higher level than has been done in the past. Eventually it may be necessary to get a new mowing attachment. I will have to carefully explain to my son the proper way to mow the property to minimize over stressing the attachment points of the mowing unit. Ultimately I can only exert so much control. I learned how to mow the property for least stress on the equipment years ago. Using the chain for the top link was only partially successful in preventing damage to the mowing attachment. The driver of the equipment is ultimately the make or break part of the equation. At least now I will only have to instruct my own son on the issues instead of dealing with two different people. So I need to look on the bright side.

So thank you for the comments. They reinforced my own thoughts about possible causes and solutions. I was an EE for a manufacturing company and always try to use an approach to doing things that take into account stresses on equipment. Not everyone looks at things that way. Hopefully I can explain to my son well enough how to do the mowing to allow the mowing attachment to last much longer. I will likely have to take him out and show him the locations of the ditches that cause problems and explain what kind of mowing pattern has to be used for each area we mow on the property. We have one creek that comes across the property at a diagonal so that area is significantly different.

Joe

 

[hosspuller]

I looked at Deere parts for your 5105. I can't figure out how to copy the picture so I'll try to describe. Name in ( xx ) is the Deere nomenclature. There's a shaft with threads (lift link) that connects the lifting arm to the horizontal pull arm (draft link). At the bottom of the lift link there's a pin with a tee shaped head in a hole at the middle of the draft link. This pin is secured on the lift link with a formed washer (retainer) and a lynch pin (quick lock pin) To allow the draft link to float, Remove the retainer and quick lock pin, pull the tee head free of the lift link, rotate the tee pin vertical along with the retainer so they slide in the lift link slot. This allows the implement to raise the draft link about four inches, measured at the end.