B2710-I found mu hydraulic leak- Sheesh!

[mangoland]

I have had my used B2710 for a few months now, and the only thing that I haven't liked was a small hydraulic drip coming from the HST case. Initially I thought I had just over filled the resevoir, and there was some overflow dribbling out somewhere. But it persisted, and so I stated to look more. I finally peeled back the flooring to see what I could see, and lo and behold: Some sort of "mechanic" had previously gotten into my tractor looking for the same leak. Frustrated with lack of access, he took a cutting torch to the frame!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Under is the line that runs from the oil cooler back to the HST, and it was not properly seated. I tightened the bolt, but it seems to be stripped. So I will have to come up with a Plan B to put some force on the flange and get it snug on the seal. There is an o-ring, but it is not tight for some reason. I could disconnect the pipe at the other end, but I don't think I could snake it out without bending.

While the "mechanic" is not to be commended for his workmanship, or lack thereof, I think Kubota has some answering to do for putting a fallible connection in such an inaccessible place. It looks like otherwise one would have to do some extensive disassembly to get it.

File this under the "Is that what's troublin' ya', Bunky?" section.

 

[AntrimMan]

Don't let this thing beat you like it did with the previous fellow.
That screw goes into a blind hole. It's an easy job to put a heli-coil into the casing, a new o-ring, and your back in business, now that the steel is burned away. The pipe might be bent preventing it from seating. Disconnect the other end and tighten the flange in the pic first.
All the best,
Martin

 

[btolle]

Once in a while I have found that a stripped metric or SAE bolt hole could be overcome by tapping it out to a slightly larger size SAE or metric. In other words, if it is a metric bolt there may be an SAE size slightly larger and vice-versa.

Bill Tolle

 

[mangoland]

Thanks for the suggestions. I loosened the far end of the pipe to get the torque out, so that is good. But unfortunately I can't pull the end of the pipe (in the picture) up out of the hole far enough to get the o-ring off. It has a neck that extends quite a ways into the case. So I may try some sort of gasket compound. I am going to try and tap out to a 5/16", or 3/8" if that doesn't work.

Clearnace is still not so good, but I don't think I'll try cutting away any more of the frame...

Can someone tell me, coming from the oil cooler, does this line have a lot of pressure on it?

 

[AntrimMan]

If the line is coming from the oil cooler it is a low pressure line, somewhere less than 30psi I would imagine. The hoses are probably help on with hose clamps, that is an indication of lower pressure too. If it is a metal to metal seal I would suspect it to be a higher pressure line.
You only need to replace the o-ring if it is damaged where it mates with the gland, BTW. I don't know about using sealing compound.

Martin

 

[btolle]

Wrap 3 or 4 turns of cotton sewing thread around the pipe between the flange on the pipe and the O ring. That will tighten up the O ring enough so it may seal. It may take more than 3 or 4 wraps but keep at it until you get it.

Putting a small mount of grease around the pipe before wrapping the thread will help hold the thread in place.

I would be sure to use cotton thread. Many of the common sewing threads are synthetic and may not hold up to the heat like cotton will.

Bill Tolle