My mom broke her feedback rod on her B3030 so I replaced it but its broke now also. I think I didn't have it adjusted the right length....duh. So I have one more feedback rod to try out. If anyone could tell me or better yet post a picture of their feedback rod on the 3 pt hitch I would be very gratfull. She's 81 years old and loves to till on her Kubota. Here is a picture. It is the broke silver "bolt" in the pic. I need to know how much threads are left sticking out of the bolt on a B3030 that isn't causing troubles. When broke the hitch won't lift the tiller. I think I had it adjusted too short and only a bit of the bolt threads should be sticking out past the two locking nuts.......any help will be great.
B3030 owners.......H E L P!
- Thread starter bilrus61
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BigBoyToys
Gold Member
Can't get to the tractor to take a look but here's what I could find in the Factory Workshop Manual...
varmint
Elite Member
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- Mar 17, 2003
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- Northern Maryland
- Tractor
- Kubota B8200, then a Kubota L3130 HST, now a Kubota L3400 HST
Nothing in the FWM about adjusting the rod's length? Seems like there should be??
BigBoyToys
Gold Member
Nothing specific to an actual length measurement. Based on what I found in the WSM, I think you'd set the rod length to the "middle position", based on the length of the threaded section. Then follow the steps for adjusting the "free play" in the second image in the previous post. I don't think you'd want to just change the broken feedback rod with an implement on it without checking the free play. I'm no expert by any means as this is my first tractor, but that's how I'd approach it.
The only reference to the "feedback rod" under "Troubleshooting" in the hydraulics section, is page 8-S10 which is image 2 in the previous post.
I haven't used my 3 point hitch yet. I bought the tractor this past summer with the backhoe on it. I needed it to dig a monolithic slab. Still have some more digging projects this spring so it won't come off for a little while.
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von-mil
Gold Member
I adjusted the setup on mine and this is how it now looks - just 1 or 2 threads exposed on the end of the rod. I don't remember how many threads were originally showing but I think it was around 7. Be careful if you set the nuts close to the end (like mine) because, depending on which implement is attached, your top link may lift high enough to damage the sheet metal that is directly above it.
What is causing the rod to break? Is the tiller biting into the ground and creating enough downforce to pull the three-point hitch down further than the feedback rod's setting. Just curious.
von-mil
Gold Member
I just saw the close-up pic from the above WSM post and though it's kind of blurry, it looks like about 10 threads are exposed at the end of the rod. Actually, me counting threads is only meaningful if your feedback rod and replacement rod(s) is the same overall length as the one on my tractor (or the one in the WSM photo). The measurement that really matters is the distance between the pivot point on the forward end of the rod and where the other end of the rod connects to the lift arm.
BigBoyToys
Gold Member
Agreed...The critical position is that of the "feedback arm" relative to the "lift arm feedback rod connector" and not the length of the rod itself. I was "assuming" that a factory replacement "feedback rod" would be physically identical as what it is replacing. Something to ask the dealer i guess. The WSM doesn't get into any detail on the relative starting positions for the two. I would have to believe the engineers designed the "threaded adjustment" on the rod to be within some tolerance to provide lift height adjustment and not allow it to snap within that range. As you asked...WHY is the feedback rod breaking. Another question would be WHEN did it break. Was it while the tiller was in use or while it was being lifted? Maybe there's an issue with the relief or position control valve(s).
BigBoyToys
Gold Member
Here's how my rod is adjusted...
Toolguy
Platinum Member
Mine looks just like BigBoyToys. The threads measure 7/16" past the nut.
Got figured out. the tab the rod sticks through with the nuts was frozen with rust. Wouldn't move at all so didn't rotate and instead it was bending the feedback rod slightly every time the tiller was raised and lowered. I had to get it loose with break free and a hour soaking and then put a 15 inch crescent wrench on that tab to get it to move at all. A hour later and much washing of rustoil it was moving easy and free and now it no longer puts any stress on the feedback rod.
I would have never figured it out without you guys help! When I saw that the length was similar to what I had on the first replacement rod (which broke) I knew I had to look for some other factor. A carful examination of the illustrated parts list show that tab had a cotter pin to hold it in. Hmmmmmm.....so it must be loose and could fall out, it was also round. I went out and checked and could see my mom's tab was solid and no rotation at all. Apparently she put it up for the winter with some moisture in that area and the tab rusted solid to its hole. My shoulder is sore from breaking it free and turning it to free it up. If you own a B3030 a drop of oil on that tab the rod fit through, where the locking nuts are, would be a smart precaution. Thanks guys for your help!
I would have never figured it out without you guys help! When I saw that the length was similar to what I had on the first replacement rod (which broke) I knew I had to look for some other factor. A carful examination of the illustrated parts list show that tab had a cotter pin to hold it in. Hmmmmmm.....so it must be loose and could fall out, it was also round. I went out and checked and could see my mom's tab was solid and no rotation at all. Apparently she put it up for the winter with some moisture in that area and the tab rusted solid to its hole. My shoulder is sore from breaking it free and turning it to free it up. If you own a B3030 a drop of oil on that tab the rod fit through, where the locking nuts are, would be a smart precaution. Thanks guys for your help!