B3030 Top and Tilt measurements?

hazmat · May 9, 2007

My B3030 is on order.

I wanted to get a toplink & sidelink ordered up from CCM so I"m ready when the tractor arrives.

I grabbed the length of the toplink closed (18") and the fixed sidelink (16.25") but didn't have a set of calipers with me to get the top & bottom pin diameters off the sidelink.

If someone could measure for me, I'd really appreciate it. Might also need the angle of the bottom clevis... An added bonus would be a picture of the rear of the tractor for reference.

Thanks in advance

crbr · May 9, 2007

hazmat said:
My B3030 is on order. I wanted to get a toplink & sidelink ordered up from CCM so I"m ready when the tractor arrives.

I grabbed the length of the toplink closed (18") and the fixed sidelink (16.25") but didn't have a set of calipers with me to get the top & bottom pin diameters off the sidelink.

If someone could measure for me, I'd really appreciate it. Might also need the angle of the bottom clevis... An added bonus would be a picture of the rear of the tractor for reference.

Thanks in advance

Keep in mind the functionality of a quick hitch (QH) (should you so choose) prior to buying the toplink. Pat's Quick Hitch does not warn that extra long toplinks will be necessary once the QH attachments are installed. Length of necessity varies with different styles of QH use. Mine (Pat's QH) is still in the unopened shipping box. I'd send it back if I thought they'd take it with a full refund. Otherwise, it will sit there forever.

hazmat · May 9, 2007

Thanks for the warning - I've got a Harbor Freight quick hitch (similar to Imatch & Speeco) that I'll be transfering.

Greenfield Dave · May 16, 2007

I have Pats QH on my L4400, and to tip the grader box's teeth off the driveway, I have to max out the top link. I have not measured it, but am considering a hyd. top link. The QH is great, as I change implements often, but the length is a problem.

Is the check valve a necessity??

hazmat · May 16, 2007

Let's just put it this way. There are many tools that may accomplish a job, but there is always the "right" tool for that job. The check valve top link is the right tool. Especially considering it's near zero premium above a standard cylinder (unless you are going to fabricate you own & don't value your time) & that CCM is a tbn sponsor.

hazmat · May 16, 2007

Oh - I should mention that I've got the toplink on order, but put off the sidelink for now after discussing it with Mark at CCM. In order to fit the B3030, I could only get 4" travel. I'm going to see how I like the ratcheting adjustment b4 I spend the money.

8561 · May 16, 2007

Hazmat - you can make a CCM side link work on your tractor. I have one on my B2410 and I can get nearly full travel. On a 3030, I'm sure you can get full travel, but it does take some modification. The first and easiest thing is to simply drill a higher hole in the lower yoke. The picture attached shows mine. It's probably all you need to do on your tractor to get what you need. The second thing I did, is on top of the cylinder body are threads to screw the top yoke into. I cut about half of them off and shortened things up even more. There will still be plenty of threads left. I've run it this way for a couple of years with no issues whatsoever. Top'n'tilt is fantastic.

hazmat · May 16, 2007

Thanks Tim - do you have any measurements of your sidelink - pin to pinA & B extended & retracted?

Are you in Southern NH? I might have to drop by with a couple cold ones to inspect your handiwork

8561 · May 16, 2007

Come by any time, I'm a little west of Concord (send me a PM). If you want those measurements, I'll get them for you, but it might be a couple of days. It's baseball season which means I'm on the field 7 days a week right now.

Charlesaf3 · May 17, 2007

an aside on the quick hitch - I've got the harbor freight quick hitch with my 3030, its a fine product, but I really don't find it any easier than the 3030s regular 3 point system, which is really nicely designed.

hazmat · May 17, 2007

hey Charles - how's the weather on the Vineyard? I'm heading to Oak Bluffs for Mem Day weekend.

The quick hitch is way better than the three point on my TC18. No extendable lower links, no ratched side adjust. My Dad's TC40DA has the deluex three point - it is real nice when you are hooking up the larger implements that you really can't muscle around on your own. (like a 6' rotary cutter).

Charlesaf3 · May 19, 2008

Hey Hazmat,

Hopefully good this weekend - of course this is a year late!

Did you ever put top n tilt on the b3030? If so, mind sharing what you did?

hazmat · May 19, 2008

Charlesaf3 said:
Hey Hazmat,

Hopefully good this weekend - of course this is a year late!

Did you ever put top n tilt on the b3030? If so, mind sharing what you did?

The extended forecast looks OK for Sat, Nice for Sunday.

Anyway - timely post. I just received a sidelink from Gearmore. I still need to measure for hoses & have some made up (this weeks project).

I have the CCM toplink, but I broke it - (my fault) - the check valve & associated plumbing doesn't fit well. The B3030 end is tight, so is the quick hitch side. I've got new tubes on order from CCM & think I've come up with a solution to the clearance issue (new hole in quick hitch). If you aren't using the quick hitch, it will fit fine, put the rod end towards the tractor.

For control, I've got 2 "factory" rear remotes on the B3030.

I'll post some pix once I get it all set up.

stimpee · May 19, 2008

Anyone know how much the "factory" rear remotes on the B3030 should cost?

I am thinking about doing some remotes (2-3) for top/tilt or other things, and also possibly the WR Long electric valve for a possible grapple in the front.

Trying to figure out which way to go with that. I think the factory remotes (2) plus the Long electric valve will end up being a lot more expensive than me putting together a 3-4 spool valve and mounting it on the back on the ROPS or something. However going the factory route will be a lot cleaner, and the Long valve will be easier to use on the grapple if I go that way. So it is cost vs integration I guess!

Steve

Charlesaf3 · May 19, 2008

I have one rear remote currently - I use it plus a long hose to run my front grapple. Could be cleaner looking, but its really not bad, and looks fine. If you want to save a few bucks I'd run the grapple off the remotes. I don't mind reaching to the factory lever to operate the grapple - its not like one opens and closes it a few times a minute

I have one remote now, and would love to figure out how to add 2 more. Any thoughts on that from people more sophisticated about hydraulics? (which would be everyone, btw)

Hazmat, I'd love to see any pics, on/off/whatever. Can't quite visualize your problem I'm afraid, but fear running into it myself.

What size toplink and sidelink did you go with? And how did you break it? Which quick hitch? So many questions...

I'll be on the island this weekend, I'll look for you in OB. What color/name is the boat? I have this vision of me walking down the harbor saying "hi, are you hazmat?". People are definitely going to think my first stop was the liquor store at the end of the harbor...

hazmat · May 19, 2008

Charles

The Toplink is 18-26.5" version

The sidelink is gearmore # L2.5x4-15KB-RH which means 2.5 dia 4" stroke 15" closed length.

My real name is Steve Dewey, Boat is Duet, 38 foot freedom (sailboat) hailing from Padanaram- white hull, navy blue canvas. I'll be the younger guy (33) on the boat

stimpee factory remotes are ~$500 each IIRC. You can find 2007 list here

Charlesaf3 · May 19, 2008

Thanks for the info Steve I'll keep an eye out for you.

4" stroke is enough on the side? I've got to go out an measure my top - I think I have it close to full extension with the rake on to be less aggressive, and I just bought the Pats, so I think that means I'll need to err on the long side.

Charles

amigauser · May 19, 2008

hazmat said:
Charles

The Toplink is 18-26.5" version

The sidelink is gearmore # L2.5x4-15KB-RH which means 2.5 dia 4" stroke 15" closed length.

I am also thinking about adding just "top" to my B3030. I also have the 2 rear factory remotes and I have not used or tried them yet. Does CCM provide the hoses that go from the top cylinder to the rear remote or is that something you have to provide yourself? If I have to roll my own hoses, what type of connector is required at the tractor "remote" end?

I am curious why you purchased just the top setup from CCM but the tilt setup from Gearmore?

Thanks.

hazmat · May 19, 2008

Charlesaf3 said:
Thanks for the info Steve I'll keep an eye out for you.

4" stroke is enough on the side? I've got to go out an measure my top - I think I have it close to full extension with the rake on to be less aggressive, and I just bought the Pats, so I think that means I'll need to err on the long side.

Charles

I don't know if 4" is enough, but you'f be hard pressed to get anything bigger in there.

I'd say the toplink is on the long side already, but you can measure your toplink at full extension to compare.

hazmat · May 19, 2008

amigauser said:
I am also thinking about adding just "top" to my B3030. I also have the 2 rear factory remotes and I have not used or tried them yet. Does CCM provide the hoses that go from the top cylinder to the rear remote or is that something you have to provide yourself? If I have to roll my own hoses, what type of connector is required at the tractor "remote" end?

I am curious why you purchased just the top setup from CCM but the tilt setup from Gearmore?

Thanks.

You should have gotten the male sides of the quick disconnects with your tractor. CCM will sell you a hose kit for ~$50 that has the proper end on the cylinder & 1/2 NPT male for the tractor disconnect side. They are standard "pioneer" ag type or compatible - I forget the exact part number.

I went with gearmore on the sidelink because I felt I'd have trouble fitting the check valve on the B3030. I may regret the choice...