B3030HSDC A/C problem

[BizDoc]

My cab AC does not blow cold. I checked the coolant a few months ago and it was low. So I injected new coolant, however it still does not blow cold. The A/C unit seems to be working, it clicks on and off and the belt runs, not sure what else needs looked at.

 

[TripleR]

I am assuming you have checked and cleaned all of your filters and condenser? It sure helped mine.

 

[leonz]

My cab AC does not blow cold. I checked the coolant a few months ago and it was low. So I injected new coolant, however it still does not blow cold. The A/C unit seems to be working, it clicks on and off and the belt runs, not sure what else needs looked at.

By belt do you mean the circulating fan blower belt in the roof of the cab?

Check the condenser drain to make sure it is not plugged with junk and mold.

The condenser drain should be peeing water when the A/C and you should have a puddle of water under the B3030 when it is sitting there with the air on.

The roof of the B3030 has to come off to clean the condensor drain, One the folks last year had an issue with his air not working and he removed the roof panel to repair it because of ducting issues if I remember correctly.

Are vents and door controls working properly?

Is the compressor belt tight? it is powered form the engine flywheel and I think these are on the right side of the B3030 engine and are tight fit.


I would seriously think the condenser drain is plugged and the condenser needs to be hosed out with hot water or air-the drain pan should allow you to use a hose delivering a small amount of hot water to spray through the condenser fins and drain out with out dripping into the cab.

leonz

 

[RickB]

My cab AC does not blow cold. I checked the coolant a few months ago and it was low. So I injected new coolant, however it still does not blow cold. The A/C unit seems to be working, it clicks on and off and the belt runs, not sure what else needs looked at.

What are the system pressures while the clutch is driving the compressor?

 

[Ductape]

One thing I noticed with mine is that some warm air still comes out of the defroster vents above the windshield when the A/C is on. I've been contemplating putting a shut-off in the heater hoses to keep the air all cold in the summer.

 

[RickB]

One thing I noticed with mine is that some warm air still comes out of the defroster vents above the windshield when the A/C is on. I've been contemplating putting a shut-off in the heater hoses to keep the air all cold in the summer.

That is a VERY worthwhile project in many cases. Some tractors have shutoffs in the heater lines or at the engine connection points as factory equipment. One shutoff will do the trick. When the heater gets to fighting with the air conditioner, the heater wins, every single time.

 

[TripleR]

One thing I noticed with mine is that some warm air still comes out of the defroster vents above the windshield when the A/C is on. I've been contemplating putting a shut-off in the heater hoses to keep the air all cold in the summer.

I don't know about your system, but on mine the instructions say to close these off while operating the AC by turning them from top to bottom about half way blocking airflow out.

 

[number two]

I recall your previous thread where you added two cans of R134A to your system.I thought you had it working again.If it worked for awhile and now not so good.perhaps your charge is low again even though your compressor clutch is cycling again.Like RickB asked,the low and high side pressures would be usefull info.I realize you can't provide this info without a guage set.If you can feel the temperature difference between the suction(low) side line at the compressor(cold-the bigger line)vs. the discharge line(high)side at the compressor(hot-the smaller line)this should tell you if the refridgeration system is working well.Since you had a leak before,you may still have a leak or the previously mentioned water valve problem may be the culprit.Post back or PM as I have the same tractor-I'm curious.Good Luck

 

[BizDoc]

I recall your previous thread where you added two cans of R134A to your system.I thought you had it working again.If it worked for awhile and now not so good.perhaps your charge is low again even though your compressor clutch is cycling again.Like RickB asked,the low and high side pressures would be usefull info.I realize you can't provide this info without a guage set.If you can feel the temperature difference between the suction(low) side line at the compressor(cold-the bigger line)vs. the discharge line(high)side at the compressor(hot-the smaller line)this should tell you if the refridgeration system is working well.Since you had a leak before,you may still have a leak or the previously mentioned water valve problem may be the culprit.Post back or PM as I have the same tractor-I'm curious.Good Luck

I thought that perhaps since I was low before I would need more refrigerant. so I bought another can, with gauge. I was adding more and noticed that the pressure was between good and warning, so I quit putting refrigerant in. I did check prior to injecting more refrigerant by looking at the eye in the front of the engine to determine if it was empty and it was cloudy as it should be. Condenser runs. Looks like its back to the shop.

 

[number two]

I looked at my cab shop manual today and the AC capacity is 1.39-1.52 lbs,call it 1 1/2 pounds or 24 ounces.Each 12 oz can yields 10 or 11 ounces of useable capacity.The bubbles in the sight glass on the receiver-dryer should disappear as you reach full charge.I'm thinking you may still be low on refridgerant.And of course,the original problem,where is the leak that is still most likely present?Post back or go to the shop.Sorry to hear about your dissatisfaction with your B3030HSDC.Many of us here think they're quite nice.