B6100HST-D hydro creeps

[RickM]

I've owned an early 80's model b6100 now for a year now. It is in VGC all around. My only problem is that when my range selecter (hi/lo) is engaged, the 'neutral' position of the hydro pedal is causing a slight forward creep. I've looked underneath and it appears there are linkages and springs that might be adjustable. Is this the right way to correct my problem? The 'neutal/float' positon of the foot pedal seems very at ease and without tension the way it is now? Not bad for nearly a 20 year old tractor /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. I only have the operators manual so any input is welcome.

 

[Bird]

RickM, I doubt that I could be any help on this one, but I have a couple of questions. You say you've had the tractor for a year. Has it always done that, or is it something that started recently? If you press the reverse pedal ever so slightly, is there a point at which movement ceases (I would assume there must be) and at such point does it sound like the hydro is engaged? To partially answer your question, yes, there are adjustments than can be made to the linkages and springs, but as to whether that would correct the problem, it depends on where the problem is.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

RickM, my L4310HST manual's troubleshooting section says the way to fix creep is to adjust the rocker pedal linkage, so you're on the right track. I doubt the linkage on your tractor is at all similar to the one on mine, though, so someone with a manual will have to help you with the procedure, I'm afraid.

Mark

 

[RickM]

Bird,
I did not notice the creep when I first bought the tractor last summer. I notice it this year and it seems like it is getting worse the more I use it. I can press lightly on reverse and feel and hear the tension release on the transmission. I will try to get a better look at those linkages today. Thanks to you and Mark for the replies. I'll post again later when I find out more.

 

[MChalkley]

It sounds like it's definitely an adjustment issue. The rocker pedal is spring loaded to stay centered. If the front rod (triggering forward motion) is a little too long, the transmission would be trying to go forward even when the pedal is centered. You should be able to shorten the front rod a little to correct the problem.

Mark

 

[RickM]

Thanks Mark. I've been able to inspect more closely and what I see resembles a pneumatic cylinder much like an automatic door closure. It compresses and retracts from its center position. It is covered by an accordian boot like a cv joint. I can't determine the method to lengthen or shorten it yet so I will wait. It is very tight working quarters. Guess I'll break down and buy the service manual /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif. Have to get working now so I can mow.

On a side note, is it just me or is the board acting very sluggish this afternoon?

 

[Bird]

RickM, first, yes, the board seems very sluggish for me, too, but I thought maybe it was just my country phone lines after we got 3" of rain this morning./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

And while I don't really know, it sure sounds to me like your problem is the adjustment, and I'm glad to hear that because I figure that's the least serious problem that could cause the creep. Like Mark, I doubt that the manual for my B2710 would be much help because I think the linkage is considerably different. And after looking at my manual, I figure I could adjust mine, if necessary, while looking at the manual, but darned if I can figure out a way to describe it without the manual's pictures. In fact, I can't find anything in the manual telling anything about the adjustment; just pictures. I know Wen has commented in the past about the Kubota shop manuals being good, and I figure he probably knows more about tractors than I do, but I consider the Kubota shop manuals to be mediocre at best, (and really think I'm being overly generous in that description)./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

I haven't noticed any sluggishness on the board this afternoon, but there hasn't been much going on, either, so I don't know that I'd have noticed.

I think Kubota must have different groups responsible for shop manuals for different series of tractors. I looked through a B-something shop manual a year ago or so at my dealer's and it wasn't nearly as good as my L-series shop manual. About the only problem I have with my manual is the English translation. I'm not concerned about grammatical correctness in a shop manual, but the English is sometimes so bad that you can't even figure out what they're trying to day. Otherwise, the content and pictures are pretty good. Much better manual than they put out for my first L 6 or 7 years ago.

Mark

 

[Bird]

The sluggishness I've noticed today was not just with this site; it was others, too. That's the reason I figured it was my phone lines, or possibly my ISP.

I agree with you, Mark, about the English translations leaving something to be desired in the manuals, but in addition to that, the B2710 shop manual contains very little "how to" information or instructions, just lots of cut-away pictures. For instance, the hydro pedal adjustment is not even mentioned (or at least I haven't found it), but there are some pictures labelled with the names of the various parts. And the shop manual would be even less help if I didn't have the parts manual to go with it. I tried looking up the oil seal around the PTO shaft and found the part, part number, and exploded view in the parts manual, but all I found in the shop manual was a cut-away picture with no information as to how you would change the seal. In other words, the manual appears to be written only for experienced mechanics.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

Bird - Yeah, the current L-series manuals are quite a bit better than that.

Mark