B7510 Won't start

[rbcsaver]

I posted this under an old 7610 thread last night, and fear it isn't being read, so I'll start my own thread. Thanks for any help given.
I need some help with my B7510 that wouldn't start yesterday. My wife was mowing with the Bush Hog and shut the tractor off for a while. When she went to restart it, the (right sided) Engine Pressure dash light, and (left side) Glow Plug light both would come on and I could hear the solenoid click, but no starter engagement. I looked at the 30A solenoid fuse, and I couldn't see the wire in the top, so I replaced it with the OEM. No change I checked the battery at the terminals and connections, which I also cleaned. I 4 X checked each PTO lever to ensure that they were in a neutral position to no avail. However, a miss-placed sensor will only prevent the tractor from starting, not the console lights from displaying. The battery shows 12.5 volts at the poles, connections, and at the solenoid poles, touched to frame, vs the battery pole, but no attempt start. I tried jumping, the battery anyway, but to no avail. We had head lights, a solenoid "click,", but no middle battery light and no attempt to start, just the solenoid click. I pulled every fuse and sprayed each electric contact. I examined/touched every wire connection that I could see. After wards the tractor started. I can't say why, or what is a differential diagnosis. My wife drove it to the barn, got of of the tractor and it died. In my mind, that indicated a PTO sensor and I triple checked them, and the seat sensors. I bypassed the seat sensors with a jumper, and checked the plungers on the PTO, Clutch sensors. However, even if they detected a fault, all 3 dash lights would show. Since I travel a lot, while the grass on 18+ acres grows and I'm far from a dealer ( The "local" (45 mins away) dealer I purchased it from closed and ripped me off on warranty repairs. On a 4 yr old Kubota tractor with minimal hours, and many problems, including leaking front axle seals (3 yrs. cost me $300 under warranty period, because "only the engine and drive train are covered."), just after the warranty period I had to put in a new tach/hour meter cable. Now this, on top of a factory bad factory new dyno replaced with an alternator that I purchased, but I had to pay for transportation costs. I doubt my next tractor will be a ("bullet proof") Kubota.
In the mean time, any insight/help with my current problem is greatly appreciated.
regards,
Steve

 

[irwin]

Hi Steve, sorry you're having problems with your Kubota. Most people that own'em love'em.
Not familar with your model so I won't be much help. Sounds like you checked the right components, but I'd check the battery cables and the terminal connections also. More than a few times a poor cable contact has driven people a little crazy with frustration. Hope your luck changes soon.

 

[rbcsaver]

Hi Steve, sorry you're having problems with your Kubota. Most people that own'em love'em.
Not familar with your model so I won't be much help. Sounds like you checked the right components, but I'd check the battery cables and the terminal connections also. More than a few times a poor cable contact has driven people a little crazy with frustration. Hope your luck changes soon.

Thought I posted that I did check, and re-clean them. The only thing I didn't check was the ground at the motor.
Steve

 

[irwin]

Thought I posted that I did check, and re-clean them. The only thing I didn't check was the ground at the motor.
Steve

Have someone try cranking it while you're pulling and pushing the battery connections, feel them while key in crank position, if one gets hot, that's your problem. (Probably not your problem, but I've run into it a few times )(auto mechanic)

Just because you read over 12 volts everywhere, doesn't mean you have a good enough connection, asking your system to put 150-300 amps to the starter will cause a weak connection to fail, it might get a little hot though. Also experienced a corroded cable inside the covering that caused some head scratching.

Of course you may have a bad safety switch, but jumping the solenoid trigger wire contact to the main starter hot wire should cause it to crank, if not you could have a starter failing on you.

Whatever it is, keep at it. Read a post where a tiny crack in a crimp connector caused a no crank condition. The poster replaced the cable and away he went.

The reason I'm concentrating on the connections or starter is, if it's not the starter then you should be able to jump it with a screwdriver ....small wire stud at starter solenoid to the main positive cable stud at starter
Good luck

 

[MarkLeininger]

The solenoid sound you hear might be for the fuel pump, not sure on this model.

It sounds like two different problems at the same time. The starter solenoid will not click if there is a safety switch that isn't satisfied. That would indicate some kind of problem with the starter or battery capacity. But the tractor wouldn't die once it's running due to either a starter or battery capacity problem. It would however die due to a problem with a safety switch, and it seems like too much of a coincidence that it died when your wife dismounted.

I guess you have to focus on getting the starter problem solved first. Try to confirm whether it's really the starter solenoid you're hearing. If it's not, sounds like a safety switch. If it is, sounds like some kind of starter problem, maybe corrosion on the starter connectors. Even though you jumped it, I'd try to test the battery, either by dropping another one in or doing a load test on it.

 

[ozzie tractor]

local is 45 minute. geez i travelled 2 hours today to put a steering boot on a L4400.
anyway back to the problem. i can give you a hand but you will need a test light or multi meter. the first thing you need to know is if the trigger to the starter is getting power. its the small wire feeding into the end of the starter motor. if it is getting power (when the key is in the start position) take the little cover off the end of the starter (its held on by 3 bolts). inside is a big round thing and a spring, pull them both out. clean the contact face of the round part with emry tape. then if you look in where it came out off there is 2 big contacts, clean them as well. then reassemble.
i also got caught the other day with a similar problem which turned out to be a dirty battery lead where it bolts to the starter but only after i pulled the starter and tested it on the ground

 

[alchemysa]

I had a similar problem recently. Everything lit up but I just got a click when I turned the key to start. The problem was the battery terminal at the point where the cable is press fitted into the soft lead (pronounced led) of the battery clamps. It looked OK but it wasn't. Cleaning or tightening the clamps or using a jumper battery won't help either. Its possible that the tractor started the second time because whilst checking things you played with the clamp and temporarily re-established the connection.

I replaced the battery clamps with the type that use a bolt to hold the cable.

 

[kubotapat]

I had the same trouble withi my new BX24. The pto was in disengaged position but apparently a sensor thought the pto was still engaged. When I pull back on the pto lever it cranks.

 

[ozzie tractor]

I had the same trouble withi my new BX24. The pto was in disengaged position but apparently a sensor thought the pto was still engaged. When I pull back on the pto lever it cranks.

ah yes the old faulty safety switch. thats oh so common. this is exactly why you need to know if the starter is getting a trigger, if its a safety switch you don't get the power to the starter trigger. thats always my first check at a machine that will not start.

 

[rbcsaver]

Thank You all for your help!
Here is a retrospective of the problem that will save y'all, but at MY experience and expense.
As you recall, the 7510 died between mows, as my wife shut it down for a bit.

In retrospect, here is my account of piecing together the pieces of the electronic puzzle.
My original dynamo failed on delivery and I purchased an OEM alternator from one of this sites sponsors and the dealer installed with out labor charges inlieu of labor to replace the part. No transport charges where ever waived.

After shutting down the tractor, upon an attempted restart, only the Right (light/light) and
Left Glow-Plug lights would come on, and all I could here was a "Click,"which I attributed to the starter selenoid, b