Snow Back Blade (grader blade) conversion to snow plow, works well

[GC1710]

I was able to use my rear blade creation this weekend! Bought this back blade at auction (was 96") and weighed 650 pounds....cut it down to 60" and removed some supports...still weighs at least 400lbs....

I used horse mat as a bottom rubber piece to protect the concrete. I'm in the process of adding a ram for angle control (just need to weld the ram mounts on....lines and all else done). Also will be adding a flap on top to be able to push greater amounts of snow without it coming over the top, but also still be able to swing the blade front to rear.

This was just 2.5" of snow....hopefully we'll get more soon.

I have to say I was happy with the traction without having chains, I did my neighbors driveway uphill and had good traction without chains. Beet Juice in the tires, 125lb tractor weight on the mower deck arms, the FEL, and myself make for a decent amount of ballast.

Snow Plow Back Blade Massey GC1710 snow removal - YouTube

 

[Phillip w]

I have used a 3 pt rear blade for snow removal nearly all my life. I like to turn the blade around and pull it. If you turn a blade around, set it at an angle and the pull it you will find that the snow follows along the blade and Windows off to one side. With this approach you got to have alot (say 10+ inches) of snow before it goes over the top of the blade. If you have big drifts you can open things up with a front end loader. This is the same principle the county uses to clear the roads. They use a road grader and the put a "drift buster" on the front of the grader. Some of our roads drift pretty bad. A drift buster is a big "v" shapes plow designed to hit a drift and push it off to both sides and simultaneously the grader blade cleans the road.

 

[nybirdman]

You will find the problem using that way is if you hit a solid object there is no trip/give.I would suggest pulling forward.

 

[GC1710]

You will find the problem using that way is if you hit a solid object there is no trip/give.I would suggest pulling forward.

I'm hoping with the bottom 1" of the blade only being 3/4" thick horse mat it will just plop on top of concrete cracks. Time will tell. I was practicing using my hydraulic top link to give enough play in my 3 point for up and downward travel as the drive slopes. I will pull when needed but it leaves tire tracks that become compact and solid ice the next day, one key reason I'm pushing really.

 

[DF5152]

I was practicing using my hydraulic top link to give enough play in my 3 point for up and downward travel as the drive slopes.

Do you have info on your hydraulic top link I would like to add one to my GC1720.

 

[GC1710]

Do you have info on your hydraulic top link I would like to add one to my GC1720.

Built almost solely from surpluscenter.com

Th

9-7258-8 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES $ 102.95

The spool:
1 9-7862 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21BB5C1 DA VALVE 151.95


All the hoses and connections were probably another $120.

Dalton hydraulics also has some deals sometimes.

If I did it all over again i'd probably spend a little more money on the spool and get the prince float option (one of the spools supports float). Neither spools on my setup support float.