Backhoe BACKHOE FOR L3600

[Anonymous Poster]

HELP! I AM BUYING A USED L3600 AND I WOULD LIKE TO PUT A BACKHOE ON IT BUT I'M NOT QUITE SURE OF WHICH UNIT TO BUY. I WILL BE DOING SOME STUMPING (8-10" STUMPS) SOME DIGING IN STUBORN ROCKY SOIL. MY LOT IS NOT WHAT I WOULD CALL HARD PAN SOIL, BUT IT IS REAL TOUGH STUFF, TO PLANT A BUSH W/ A SHOVEL IS A BACK BREAKER.

I AM NOT SURE ABOUT THE KUBOTA MODEL BECAUSE IT HAS NO SUB FRAME, THE WOODS 750 FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND IS VERY POPULAR, THERE IS A DEALER IN MY AREA WHO SELLS BUSH HOG BUT ALL HE DOES IS KNOCK THE WOODS AND KUBOTA LINE INSTEAD OF GIVING GOOD BACK UP ON HIS. THE BRADCO FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND IS PROBABLY THE BEST OF THE LOT.

ANY INSIGHT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, I AM REALLY CONFUSED AT THIS POINT.PRICE WISE THE KUBOTA MODEL SEEMS TO BE GOOD BUT I AM CONCERNED ABOUT ITS ABILITY AND ITS DURABILITY COMPARED TO THE MORE EXPENSIVE UNITS W/SUB FRAMES. ANY SUGESTIONS?

THANKS

 

[MarkV]

Tplay,

Do a search on the forum and you will find a great deal of information on frame vs. 3pt mount backhoes. A number of members have 3pt backhoes and seem to be happy with them for their needs. There was also a recent thread about someone breaking the engine case on a Kubota by using a 3pt backhoe. (see "One Less Kubota" tread) Guess it all depends on how you are going to use the backhoe.

When you said <font color=blue>I WILL BE DOING SOME STUMPING</font color=blue>, my mind said get the sub-frame. I've spent a lot of hours working small backhoes and I think that digging stumps is as hard as it gets for the little hoes. Even a small stump puts some real stress on a small backhoe.

As a side note, you might want to consider a tooth bar for the loader. Besides making the loader a much better digger, the teeth sure help anchor the tractor when the backhoe is being used.

MarkV

 

[tractorman]

I would have to agree on the need for a subframe mounted backhoe. Both Woods and Bush Hog offer a frame mounted backhoe which are very comparable in quality. I wouldn't say that one is much better than the other. Just be aware that their "Kubota Grande L Series" subframes reduce ground clearance by a great deal, they also hang out pretty far behind the tractor. So not only do they look awkward but they bottom out a great deal, and they make loading and unloading on trailers difficult. The Bradco is by far the best of the bunch, The backhoe itself is very beefy, and you can tell that they put some thought into their subframes. They fit close to the tractor, they leave you will good ground clearance and they do not wiggle around when you are using the hoe. It is a solid connection. Good Luck & Happy holidays......tractorman

 

[MarkV]

To add to Tractormans excellent advice, the Bradco unit is the only one that lets you leave the 3pt on when you mount the backhoe.

MarkV

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SOUND ADVISE. COMMON SENSE WAS TELLING ME TO GO W/SUB FRAME AFTER YOUR HELP I AM CONVINCED. I LOOKED AT THE KUBOTA THIS MORNING AT A DEALER A FEW TOWNS OVER IT LOOKED LIGHT WIEGHT. AFTER LOOKING AT PAST THREADS ON THIS SIGHT AND GETTING SOME OTHER LINKS I THINK I WILL GO FOR THE BRADCO 509

 

[kubmech]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

I also agree that the Bradco is a good heavy duty backhoe. However there is one slight draw back with the Bradco. The "easy" quick attach system can be a little frustrating sometimes. If you have a good hard flat surface to mount and dismount the backhoe on it helps, also if the mechanic installing the backhoe assy. is "afforded" the extra time to do some tweaking here and there (a luxury that unfortunately external pressures don't allow form time to time) it will make the job of removal and installation a little easier. In other words, request that the extra time be spent making sure the backhoe goes on and off relatively easy.

 

[radman]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

I agree, the Bradco mounting plates need to be positioned fairly accurately when put on the tractor. Mine are about 1/8" off and sometimes it takes a little skill to attach the hoe. Unfortunately, the rear wheels need to be removed to change the postion of the mounting plates. Even tightening the bolts on the mounting plate will shift the alignment slightly. Next time I adjust the plates, I might try leaving the hoe attached and just move one mounting plate at a time.

 

[kubmech]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

Radman, the subframe pieces you are reffering to are a tough nut to crack. The 1/8th of an inch out is pretty darn good for that set-up. Due to the nature of where and how those sub-frame pieces bolt up, you're pretty much stuck with what you get once the bolts are tightened down. However some further "tweaking" can improve the situation: The two brackets that mount to the backhoe itself have four bolt holes each that can be "egged out" to provide a little more alignment as well as chamfering the mounting points where the backhoe connects. It works for us in most cases. The ones that are too far out (as much as an inch) we ususually send back to Bradco and hope for the best when the new subframe pieces come in. It sounds like in your case some "strategic" grinding in a few places will hook you right up.

 

[radman]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

Kubmech:
Thanks for the grinding tip. That is probably what I will use. I wish I thought about "egging out" the holes in the brackets that the bolts go through before putting on the mounting bracket. The tolerances between the angled "U" bolts and the holes in the brackets are too narrow. What a pain in the ____ to put on! Now I always wonder how difficult it might be to ever get them off! Currently, the hoe does hook on OK but the fit is snug and there is absolutely no play.
The other area that is close is the space between the mounting brackets and R4 tires. There is about a 3/8" gap between the mounting plate and tire on one side and about 1/2" on the other.

 

[kubmech]

Re: TRACTORMAN&MARK

Yup, the clearance is pretty close on the rear tires, in some instances we have to install wheel spacers. However, does your tractor have the adjustable centers in the rims? You might try adjusting the centers out to gain more clearance. Just keep in mind if the rear tires are wider than the front bucket you'll lose your "cat wiskers". And you'll need to remember if the front bucket fits through an opening, it does'nt mean your rearend will.