Backhoe Backhoe outrigger protection?

[4570Man]

The "eggs out" issue that you mention, has been a concern of mine when perusing their design.
There obviously is no provision for greasing, but I believe I may be able to remedy that.
I think I can bore a small hole down through the center of each pivot bolt head, drill a small cross hole in the bolt, and install a zerk fitting in the bolt head, thus allowing that bolt to pivot on a greased surface.
The other thought I have is, before using, bore the pivot bolt hole out larger, and install a bronze (or steel?) bushing.
When/if the bushing wears, just push it out, and install a new one.
I am leaning toward the bushing idea.

The weight difference between the 60" #1 & #2 units is approximately 300 pounds.
I really do not want to deal with that extra weight.
If I have something really nasty/heavy to grab, My hoe is very powerful, so I can use the hoe with thumb instead, and not put unnecessary stress on my loader frame.

I have zero rocks, and really only do need a light duty grapple.
On recommendation from here on TBN, I will also modify the top clam with 2 inside corner angle welded pieces of 3/8 flat plate, to prevent racking/twisting of the grapple top.

I can outdo you by about 7 years.
My last college engineering design/drafting class was in 1961, and I was employed in a completely different field!

If I remember correctly the grapple in discussion just has a laser cut hole with a bolt through it. No amount of grease is going to prevent an inadequate pivot from wearing out. Although it might help a little the hole is mostly stretching not wearing. My M59 lifts twice as much with the loader as what the backhoe will handle. I suspect yours is about the same.

 

[Notforhire]

The "eggs out" issue that you mention, has been a concern of mine when perusing their design.
There obviously is no provision for greasing, but I believe I may be able to remedy that.
I think I can bore a small hole down through the center of each pivot bolt head, drill a small cross hole in the bolt, and install a zerk fitting in the bolt head, thus allowing that bolt to pivot on a greased surface.
The other thought I have is, before using, bore the pivot bolt hole out larger, and install a bronze bushing.
When/if the bushing wears, just push it out, and install a new one.

The weight difference between the 60" #1 & #2 units is approximately 300 pounds.
I really do not want to deal with that extra weight.
If I have something really nasty/heavy to grab, My hoe is very powerful, so I can use the hoe with thumb instead, and not put unnecessary stress on my loader frame.

I have zero rocks, and really only do need a light duty grapple.
On recommendation from here on TBN, I will also modify the top clam with 2 inside corner angle welded pieces of 3/8 flat plate, to prevent racking/twisting of the grapple top.

I can outdo you by about 7 years.
My last college engineering design/drafting class was in 1961!

The egging out at the pivot is not really due to wear, it's distortion from the pressure applied. I actually tried increasing the size of the pins to one inch and made them grease-able. I think they lasted about two minutes longer. I think brass will distort even sooner.
There just isn't enough bearing surface. I think the grapple arm is 3/8 in, sandwiched between two 1/4 in stationary plates. By comparison the HD model grapple arm pivot is 3 1/2 in and the outer stationary points are 1 1/4 inches wide on each side. The pivot pin is 1 1/4 in.

What I thought of doing to the E grapple was to make the pin stationary on the grapple arm and weld on 1 inch id bushings 1 1/2 inches long on either side of the stationary plates, giving the pin 3 1/2 in of bearing surface

The HD model doesn't feel heavy on my L47. The extra 300# does translate to 300# less lifting capability. 300# might be important to me if I had a smaller tractor.

I guess that's why they make both Fords and Chevys. What's best for me isn't necessarily best for you. Good luck in your decision.

Here are photos of the guards installed.