Mr Grizz
Bronze Member
Thanks Gizmo for posting the picture. I was dieing to see what it looks like on the 990. It won't be in until next week, just can't wait.
backhoe prices?
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jarokoro
Bronze Member
I went this morning, picked up my Sub Frame bundle form the JD Dealer, and spent this afternoon and early evening installing it and the Power Beyond. Tomorrow I will hook up to the JD8B Backhoe and try it out. I was satisfied overall with part(s) fitting together, however I did have to buy a few bolts for the installation.
I was surprised at how confusing the instructions were. In fact, the sub frame instructions were not even for my JD 990 tractor but a smaller and older JD 870. The bundle pack has parts for a variety of tractors. There was no clear labeling and the bolts were mixed metric and SAE. That is why I was short.
I did have a question for GIZMO, are your release pins real close to the tire? When fully retracted on mine there cannot be much more than an inch clearance with the industrial tire. It looks like it will be tough to unhook. What are your experiences?
I was surprised at how confusing the instructions were. In fact, the sub frame instructions were not even for my JD 990 tractor but a smaller and older JD 870. The bundle pack has parts for a variety of tractors. There was no clear labeling and the bolts were mixed metric and SAE. That is why I was short.
I did have a question for GIZMO, are your release pins real close to the tire? When fully retracted on mine there cannot be much more than an inch clearance with the industrial tire. It looks like it will be tough to unhook. What are your experiences?
gizmo
Silver Member
Yea, the pins are close to the tires, but it has not been a problem yet. I suppose that if I were to get into some really sticky mud it would crap up the pins.
jarokoro
Bronze Member
Yesterday I adjusted my rear wheels to the widest setting. I have gained approximately 1.5". It is still close but not as bad, at least now it is easer to undo the lock pins.
I was ripped about the line quick connect couplers that came with the sub frame bundle and the ones from the Power Beyond. They were all different sizes and thread I spent a few hours running back in forth to different stores to come up with something that worked. That's another whole thread.
The main thing is it is mounted and it works!
I was ripped about the line quick connect couplers that came with the sub frame bundle and the ones from the Power Beyond. They were all different sizes and thread I spent a few hours running back in forth to different stores to come up with something that worked. That's another whole thread.
The main thing is it is mounted and it works!
slaveToHorses
Gold Member
For the 4520, the JD448 really is the way to go. With the older JD hoes (7b,8b,47,48), they attach with the subframe, but the new design (447,448) uses side plates that allow the rockshaft arms to pick up and mount the hoe.
You certainly want to stay away from a 3pt mounted hoe, for a number of reasons that we can go into if needed.
You certainly want to stay away from a 3pt mounted hoe, for a number of reasons that we can go into if needed.
AKfish
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,419
- Location
- Alaska
- Tractor
- JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
$8,600... Gotta expect that shipping expenses and steel costs are gonna push prices higher!
I've got a 970 and the 8A hoe. It's a great TLB! You'll be surprised at the power and the kinds of jobs you'll find for it!
Get a thumb or make one like I did. You'll come to love using it.
AKfish
I've got a 970 and the 8A hoe. It's a great TLB! You'll be surprised at the power and the kinds of jobs you'll find for it!
Get a thumb or make one like I did. You'll come to love using it.
AKfish
AKfish said:
I am considering adding a thumb and have the resources in that I have a brother that has worked for Rears Mfg for almost 30 years and they make farm implements...flails/mowers, spray tanks etc...If it's made out of steel he can probably make it. I haven't the foggiest idea of sizing for this size backhoe...you know of any online plans or some pointers on design?
AKfish
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,419
- Location
- Alaska
- Tractor
- JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
I spent quite a bit of time researching the various thumbs that folk's here on TBN built and installed.
I recall one design from a guy in California (engineer by trade, I think) that articulated with the bucket. Example -- when the bucket opened; the thumb would retract and vice versa.
I have the 18" bucket and have found that it suits my needs best. (Your thumb dimensions will be a bit different than mine with a 12" bucket.) It will dig a trench that allows me to walk in and lay pipe and electric wire, etc. As well, it is a stump digger and tree puller extrodinaire!
My recommendation is look around here on TBN -- (I have some pics in older posts) -- and get some ideas.
Then, measure and measure and measure again before you cut and weld. We used vise grips and welding clamps in all sorts of gyrations before tacking!
Put things in place and then start up the tractor and run the hoe to see what fits and clears.
I used 1/2" plate for the jaws and 3/8" plate for base plates that are welded to the hoe boom. We felt that warpage or distortion of the boom might be a problem with thicker plate (plus more weight). Rectangular pipe and square pipe was 1/4" to save a bit on weight and since there is little direct stress, not a strength issue. Stainless steel pins to ease the problem of rusting and sticking.
If you have more detailed questions -- PM me and I can get some dimensions, etc. for you when you get ready to run a bead...
AKfish
I recall one design from a guy in California (engineer by trade, I think) that articulated with the bucket. Example -- when the bucket opened; the thumb would retract and vice versa.
I have the 18" bucket and have found that it suits my needs best. (Your thumb dimensions will be a bit different than mine with a 12" bucket.) It will dig a trench that allows me to walk in and lay pipe and electric wire, etc. As well, it is a stump digger and tree puller extrodinaire!
My recommendation is look around here on TBN -- (I have some pics in older posts) -- and get some ideas.
Then, measure and measure and measure again before you cut and weld. We used vise grips and welding clamps in all sorts of gyrations before tacking!
Put things in place and then start up the tractor and run the hoe to see what fits and clears.
I used 1/2" plate for the jaws and 3/8" plate for base plates that are welded to the hoe boom. We felt that warpage or distortion of the boom might be a problem with thicker plate (plus more weight). Rectangular pipe and square pipe was 1/4" to save a bit on weight and since there is little direct stress, not a strength issue. Stainless steel pins to ease the problem of rusting and sticking.
If you have more detailed questions -- PM me and I can get some dimensions, etc. for you when you get ready to run a bead...
AKfish
