Backhoe removal and bucket questions

[dirtymartini]

I am getting ready to remove my backhoe from my R 4047 for the first time and am looking for tips...I didn't get any manuals when I bought the tractor.

Also is the backhoe bucket a standard size? I think I would like to get a narrower on for the work I am doing.

 

[windy acers]

Remove the hydroliicks lasts you can adjust the out riggers and move the bucket. you can have a bucket made or get a used one cut down.

 

[BlessedMess]

Assuming the XR and XU are using similar mounts:
- pull the two locking pins
- lower stick and bucket so bucket is parallel with ground (teeth pointed towards 3PH) and lower stabilizers so it kind of resembles a tripod
- goal now is to have BH-connected subframe slightly lower than tractor-mounted frame underneath tractor and slightly elevated in rear cradle (where pins attach) to allow a smooth drive-off
- before disconnecting hydraulic hoses, I ease tractor forward slightly to make sure tractor will clear BH subframe
** Tip: I try to mark position of rear tires before driving off, so I can more easily line tractor up when reconnecting -- 4' Bamboo cane laid flat on ground works great.
- reset hydraulic remote lever to the neutral/off position then disconnect hoses. Simply drive tractor straight forward until it is clear off the BH subframe
** Note: I've heard that not turning off remote can cause excess fluid leakage and damage the hydraulic pump.
** Tip: After a few days the BH pressure will leak and stabilizers will settle to the ground. If you have extra tires or blocks of wood, it might be possible to keep the BH leveled for easier re-attachment and also reduce ground-contact moisture/rust issues if stored outdoors.

All in all, dismount literally takes all of 3 minutes if I hustle or have a helper to tell me that BH is positioned correctly and help detach hoses. Reattachment gets easier each time... I just back up trying to line up tractor with BH subframe, connect hoses/turn on hydraulic remotes to pressurize, level BH subframe like it was at detach, and then ease back checking to make sure it is still lined up vertically and horizontally. The last 1/2" - 1" of remounting is, in my experience, easier performed using the BH controls. If the BH subframe is not all the way back into the tractor-mounted cradle, you won't be able to fully reinsert those locking pins. That is usually the "hardest" part of reattaching the BH, and I usually have to drive around a little so that the cradle and BH make friends again and pin(s) can easily slide in/out.

 

[BlessedMess]

P.S. My backhoe was ordered with a 18" bucket, but believe the OEM and/or aftermarket offers buckets between 9" and 36" (9, 12, 14, 16, 18, 24, 36 IIRC). The narrower ones have fewer teeth -- can see how they'd be useful for trenching or really dense material like clay or thick roots. Any larger bucket sizes IMHO would make it harder to do the projects I have done, and only useful in scenarios where material is pre-loosened or more fluid like sand, mud, etc.

 

[dirtymartini]

Assuming the XR and XU are using similar mounts:
- pull the two locking pins
- lower stick and bucket so bucket is parallel with ground (teeth pointed towards 3PH) and lower stabilizers so it kind of resembles a tripod
- goal now is to have BH-connected subframe slightly lower than tractor-mounted frame underneath tractor and slightly elevated in rear cradle (where pins attach) to allow a smooth drive-off
- before disconnecting hydraulic hoses, I ease tractor forward slightly to make sure tractor will clear BH subframe
** Tip: I try to mark position of rear tires before driving off, so I can more easily line tractor up when reconnecting -- 4' Bamboo cane laid flat on ground works great.
- reset hydraulic remote lever to the neutral/off position then disconnect hoses. Simply drive tractor straight forward until it is clear off the BH subframe
** Note: I've heard that not turning off remote can cause excess fluid leakage and damage the hydraulic pump.
** Tip: After a few days the BH pressure will leak and stabilizers will settle to the ground. If you have extra tires or blocks of wood, it might be possible to keep the BH leveled for easier re-attachment and also reduce ground-contact moisture/rust issues if stored outdoors.

All in all, dismount literally takes all of 3 minutes if I hustle or have a helper to tell me that BH is positioned correctly and help detach hoses. Reattachment gets easier each time... I just back up trying to line up tractor with BH subframe, connect hoses/turn on hydraulic remotes to pressurize, level BH subframe like it was at detach, and then ease back checking to make sure it is still lined up vertically and horizontally. The last 1/2" - 1" of remounting is, in my experience, easier performed using the BH controls. If the BH subframe is not all the way back into the tractor-mounted cradle, you won't be able to fully reinsert those locking pins. That is usually the "hardest" part of reattaching the BH, and I usually have to drive around a little so that the cradle and BH make friends again and pin(s) can easily slide in/out.

Thanks BlessedMess, that seems like a very good tutorial. I suppose it helps to have the area where you park the backhoe as level as possible?

 

[BlessedMess]

No problem -- hope it helps, and let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions. I've always picked a spot that is as level as possible for both the BH and tractor and that has chirt underneath a thin stand of Bermuda grass... albeit a slight grade (and/or tarp) may be useful to ensure rain runoff if outdoors?

Oh, and this just reminded me that you may want to do any pressure washing of mud, grease, etc. off before dismounting. I grease BH when reattaching, but the spot is not convenient at all to a water source, and I kick myself if zerks are too dirty.

Thanks BlessedMess, that seems like a very good tutorial. I suppose it helps to have the area where you park the backhoe as level as possible?

 

[dirtymartini]

No problem -- hope it helps, and let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions. I've always picked a spot that is as level as possible for both the BH and tractor and that has chirt underneath a thin stand of Bermuda grass... albeit a slight grade (and/or tarp) may be useful to ensure rain runoff if outdoors?

Oh, and this just reminded me that you may want to do any pressure washing of mud, grease, etc. off before dismounting. I grease BH when reattaching, but the spot is not convenient at all to a water source, and I kick myself if zerks are too dirty.

Thanks again...and if I didn't have family in Alabama i wouldn't have known what Chirt is LOL. ROLL TIDE!

 

[BlessedMess]

LOL -- me too. Roll tide ROLL!