Backhoe Backhoe removal and install ?

[lennyzx11]

After reading about the pitfalls of using a 3 point backhoe, I'm torn on getting one. I use/play with my L3301 constantly when at home and the implements.
Anyway, my question is exactly how hard is it to take off and replace a subframe mounted backhoe?

I'm worried that it will be such a PITA to take off and on that I won't be using my other stuff that with a quick hitch is just grab and go. The PHD started out as a pain but due to tips here it's a fairly painless process.

Couple of options going through my head. One is just trading my low Hours 3301 back in for one with a backhoe attached. Or getting the "kit" for one and installing it myself on the one I have. And of course shopping Bushhog and Woodmax that seem to have good reputations also.
The zero percent finance rate is what allows me to take that into consideration. Anyone know if Kubota finances only the backhoe implement or add it onto the note? I can buy one cash up but zero percent is always considered in the deal if the price won't come down for cash vs financing.
Thanks for all.

 

[3Lfarms]

Subframe removal is easy. Only two pins and the top link keep the structure from sliding out of the subframe. Then remove two hoses. Done. Figure 5 minutes the first time you do it.
Reinstall is just the reverse, but you have to line the tractor up correctly and use the hydraulics to get the height right for the frame to line up. It will take about 15 minutes the first time. Once you figure out some blocks to set under it while off the tractor, it will make lining things up way easier.

 

[mbohuntr]

Just removed and re-attached my hoe from the Mahindra. Not too bad, gonna need practice to get faster, buy overall, not bad at all.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I also have a Mahindra (2540) with the factory subframe (and I got the old "non-BH" subframe, will make something out of it!) Unlike the previous Mahindra that I used (my brother's), this one was a PITA to remove. The dealer had removed the lower 3-pt arms when they put it on (which is per instructions, BTW), but the thing will fit with those arms in place (also per the instructions!) so I had to remove some bolts to put back the 3 point arms. On the other Mahindra (Mitsubishi-built) I could remove the backhoe in about three minutes. This one should have been similar, except that the two main upper pins used smaller captive pins that simply drop into a hole, and whomever put this thing on didn't have those pins aligned, so they hammered the drop pins to align them with the holes, then hammered the drop pins down into the holes. This bent the pins, of course, so they had to be hammered back up! Then I find out that a hydraulic fitting prevents a pin from being pulled, so you have to essentially get the thing adjusted so there is no tension on the pin, kill the tractor, remove the fitting, knock out the pin, and hook the fitting back up so that you can finish the job. It took over an hour to take off the first time, half that to put it back on (now with most of the 3 point hookup still intact, it fits into the base of the BH or is suspended above it. Of course, putting the quick hitch back on is trivial.)
The point being is that whether it's a 3-point or subframe mounted BH, the design of the product is more important than the mounting method. I will say that if you are a heavy user of the BH, I'd recommend the subframe mount to better distribute forces.

 

[N2DFire]

I recently struggled with the idea of adding a backhoe to my toy list, I mean equipment inventory (could still kick myself for not getting it too)

The one I had my eye on was an older woods 750 3PT mount and I wanted to convert it to a subframe. I did a bunch of research here & elsewhere and depending on your subframe design some of them come on & off pretty easy.

I'd suggest reading this even if you don't plan to build your own because you'll learn a lot about how subframes work.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/171760-how-build-your-own-custom.html


Here's a 4 Point Subframe design. A 4 point leaves part of the frame permanently attached to the tractor & then connects to the backhoe mounting at 4 places.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/373738-4pt-mount-bradco-609-mf.html

Another 4 point version
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/95092-yet-another-custom-backhoe-subframe.html

And here's a homemade one piece on a kubota L2600DT / Woods 6000
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/301079-converting-3-pt-woods-6000-a.html

And finally here's a video review of a Kioti Hoe on a factory one piece subframe that has some good shots of the frame, how it mounts, and a walk thru of actually mounting it.

 

[hawkeye08]

I have a 3pt backhoe (not a heavy user). It takes some time to put on and take off, goes better when my wife helps me. If my budget allowed it and I had more need for backhoe, I would have a subframe mounted one with more capacity and longer reach.

 

[bealaddison]

I recently struggled with the idea of adding a backhoe to my toy list, I mean equipment inventory (could still kick myself for not getting it too)

The one I had my eye on was an older woods 750 3PT mount and I wanted to convert it to a subframe. I did a bunch of research here & elsewhere and depending on your subframe design some of them come on & off pretty easy.

I'd suggest reading this even if you don't plan to build your own because you'll learn a lot about how subframes work.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/171760-how-build-your-own-custom.html


Here's a 4 Point Subframe design. A 4 point leaves part of the frame permanently attached to the tractor & then connects to the backhoe mounting at 4 places.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/373738-4pt-mount-bradco-609-mf.html

Another 4 point version
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/95092-yet-another-custom-backhoe-subframe.html

And here's a homemade one piece on a kubota L2600DT / Woods 6000
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/301079-converting-3-pt-woods-6000-a.html

And finally here's a video review of a Kioti Hoe on a factory one piece subframe that has some good shots of the frame, how it mounts, and a walk thru of actually mounting it.

Excellent video. I was able to take some screen shots of some features I want to incorporate into my subframe I am building for my current rtactor/backhoe. Thanks!

 

[Deere4720]

I have a Woods subframe mounted backhoe, and it is very easy to take off and on. Two pins on the top, and then use the backhoe hydraulics to lower it slightly to disengage the bottom pins. (They are solid pins that you can't take out) It is just as easy to reinstall. I just raise the hoe up using it's hydraulics until the bottom pins catch on the subframe, and then keep going until it takes a little weight off the back tires. Slip in the top two pins and away I go. The only downside to a subframe setup is I have to take the 3-point arms off each time. That is very easy to do, and just takes a minute, but it is worth noting I suppose. I like how solid the subframe mount is though-there is zero slop between the hoe and the tractor. It took me probably a half a day or so to install the subframe, but it wasn't really that hard to do. I'm sure a dealer would install it for you too if you would rather.

 

[tjkubota93]

What Deere4720 said up there ^

Same experience.


I made a metal cart to put mine on.

 

[bdog]

I had a kubota M59 backhoe. It has 3 point links too. It was a 2008 model and the backhoe was on it and never came off until I sold it in 2015. The guy I sold it too said it took two days to get it off because the pins were frozen in place. He knew what he was doing too as he owned another M59 prior to mine that was lost in a fire. The process of changing it out doesn't seem too bad but don't leave it on there for years or you may have difficulty removing it.

 

[N2DFire]

Excellent video. I was able to take some screen shots of some features I want to incorporate into my subframe I am building for my current rtactor/backhoe. Thanks!

You are welcome. I'm glad you found it, I hadn't thought about posting it to your thread. Sorry it's not getting much input.

 

[chriswheeler]

I've got a JD 970TLB with a JD#8 backhoe. It does take 15 min. to change the hoe out to the 3 point lift arms, but it's easy, you use the hydraulics in the hoe to mount it and dismount. We had a Kubota L35 TLB at work, almost the same process. Given the choice, I'd always get the frame mount, the 3 point mount has to be much harder for the tractor to support. If it's worth getting, it's worth getting the frame mount kit. Just a opinion,
Chris

 

[bealaddison]

You are welcome. I'm glad you found it, I hadn't thought about posting it to your thread. Sorry it's not getting much input.

No worries...I have gathered enough info to get it started. Every thread I read I find a good nugget or 2 of info. Now I just need to get home so I can work on it. Thanks again!

 

[John_Mc]

I started out with a 3 PT hitch mounted Woods 7500 backhoe on my NH TC33D tractor. (I bought the backhoe used from an equipment rental place). I was not happy with how "robust" this method of mounting was, so I eventually had the Woods 4 point quick attach subframe added to my tractor. It's a great set-up. The first time I used it, it took me about 20 minutes to put it on (but I did discover that I could leave the 3 pt hitch arms on). With a little practice, I was able to mount it in 5 minutes. If I did it regularly, I could probably do much better, but these days I only use it a couple of times per year.

An additional bonus: the subframe made an excellent place to mount the belly pan I added for protection when working in the woods.

 

[lennyzx11]

Thanks everyone.
On a sidetrack. I have a 2015 Kubota L3301 that has been perfect. When I called the dealer to check on a Backhoe to add to it (based on your comments and tips), he is wanting to sell me a B26 TLB. I'm hesitant as it seems smaller.
I use a brushhog, backblade, flail mower, and grapple mostly. And the cup holder. No livestock or farm work.

You guys think a L3301 with a sub frame mounted BH or the B26 TLB would be a better all around non farming machine? Rocks, stumps, trenches, and general land clearing is my main uses. (And drinking beer).

Not to worried on the money part but don't want to trade Down in terms of performance.

 

[bspeedy]

A B26 is a construction machine. Built to take day-in, day-out (ab)use. For rocks, stumps, trenches and land clearing, I'd prefer the B26. For 3 pt work, I'd rather have the 3301. Which tasks are more important or more frequent?