Backhoe Backhoe use

[edt]

JOHN THAT LOOKS JUST LIKE MY OWNERS MANUAL PICUTRE
When I'm backhoeing I put my fel flat on the ground with parking brake locked this has less movement from the tractor
with wheels touching ground it has worked great on hills pulling stumps and digging trenches

 

[hayden]

I find the same thing to be true, so I lift the tractor off the ground. I don't disagree with the points made in John's post, but the difference between a solid BH/tractor and one that flops and bucks around is worth the reduced digging depth to me.

I think on s frame mount hoe this would be less of an issue. Unfortunately, that contradicts what Pete was told.

Bottom line, I don't think there is a critical overriding reason why it must be one way or the other.

 

[hayden]

I lift my wheels off the ground to get better stability of the 3PH hoe and tractor as an assembly. The hoe clunks around a lot otherwise. The stability is the same whether it's 1" or 1' off the ground. The only reason I can find to lift higher rather than lower is to accomodate slow sinking of the pads.

I'll let you know when my tractor breaks in half or my 3PH rips off, and you can all laugh at me while I eat crow. In the mean time, I'll go back to digging and believing this doesn't matter.

 

[jasonf]

John:
It never ceases to amaze me when you ALWAYS have a handy diagram/relevant info, no matter what the discussion...../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Hey did CT ever open up in Amsterdam, last I knew it was supposed to be May 2 ?

 

[Kodiak]

Unloading the weight from the back wheels does not nessacarily mean the tires have to leave the ground. The weight of the tractor from the front axle or bucket back, including the backhoe is now resting on the outriggers. In doing so your are putting all that weight on two very small contact areas which helps to prevent you from dragging the TLB backwards when you retact the boom and bucket. As well as allowing the down pressure on the dipper to help the bucket penetrate deeper, without lifting the back of the tractor. With the stabilizers in this position it also removes most of the sway incurred when swinging the hoe to the side. Something that can seem very severe on a compact due to its narrow stature.

As far as the front bucket position goes, I usually operate with the bucket at almost a flat bottom with the cutting edge raised 3" to 4"off the ground. The I put enough down pressure on the loader arms to just take the weight off the front axle. this provides a good 3PT stance for stability. And yet allows me to move forward by lifting the two stabilers about 6" and pushing the tractor with the backhoe, without leaving the backhoe seat. you can also pivot the tractor on the front bucket this way, by slightly lifting the back of the tractor with the backhoe and using the swing cylinders.

However I wouldn"t consider either lifting or pivoting with a 3PT hitch backhoe. If you should have a failure in your mounting the entire backhoe is likely to pivot up and forward. With the possibility of crushing you against the ROPS. So please be careful.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Good points all, however I'm often (60%) using the outriggers to level the machine. In rolling and hilly areas often the out riggers do not have sufficient lift height to bring the hoe to level. Then another problem situation is when it is necessary to dig with the fel up-hill and hoe down; she always wants to slide no matter what. Some how we alway manage to improve the dig with the old manual back-hoe. Will there's a way. Best to y'all.

 

[Carl_NH]

Pete,

All good advice here, however as you may have surmised, there are many ways to skin the cat. What you will find out is bucket down, lifted front end works in one situation, as well stabilzers lifting rear wheels may work too. Most of the time I set the stabilzers just so I have a level platform as well wheels are touching a bit one side or the other.

At the end of the day, you will set the unit up for the task at hand, for a tough stump, engage the FEL toothbar, and set the stablizers, then have at it..

What works is what matters. We all get there eventually.

 

[Boondox]

Carl -- I'm finding that out. When removing a tamarack stump I had good, firm ground to work with. When pulling silt out of the culvert, however, the stabilizers just kept sinking into the ground and didn't help much at all. So it all seems to come down to the situation. Thanks.

Pete

 

[Hawkflyer]

There is some good advice in these posts. The one thing they have in common is they are telling you that the most important tool you bring to the job is your brain. If you don't bring it with you it won't be there when you need it. Fact is that even a subframe mounted hoe hangs on the TPH shaft at the bottom of the rear tractor frame. When the hoe is sitting on it's stabilizers it is lifting up against the frame. When the tractor tires are carring the load it is hanging from the shaft and pushing up against the belly of the tractor. If you look at these attachment points you will see that putting down force on the TPH shaft works against the thinest part of the tractor frame. When the machine is working you should reduce the shock load to this area as much as possible. In otherwords, move the load to the stabilizers.Everything else will be driven by the conditions specific to the job. I have used all three main types of hoe (TPH, Subframe, and built in). The TPH system was a good idea for folks who have some light work to do on occasion, but use the machine primarily for other purposes. The subframe system is designed for the same purpose, but largly eliminates the safety problem of the hoe folding up and crushing the operator against the rear of the tractor. It also makes attachment and removal a snap, and it distrubutes the working load on the machine better. For big jobs and jobs that put very heavy work loads on the machine you NEED a dedicated hoe. That is why you do not find TPH or even subframe units on the local road project. They are just not designed to handle high working loads.Good luck and be careful.