Balast

   / Balast #11  
Try NAPA or any automotive supply. That's where I got mine. I think $6.

Keep the greasy side down.
Mike
 
   / Balast #12  
Mike, I really don't understand why it isn't in the 2001 "Blue Book", but I threw away my 1997 catalog when I got the new one; however, I know they still had the air/water adapter with the other tire stuff in the store.

And yep, I buy my Power Service additive there, too.

BirdSig.jpg
 
   / Balast #13  
Mike,

I hope those guys aren't on the safety committee where you work/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

I think most people here would agree that rear ballast is tremendously important for stability when using a FEL, particularly on smaller compacts. I have done some calculations to estimate the c.g. (length-wise) with different loads in the bucket and different amounts of weight (or no weight) on the 3-point. Trying to combine the maximum loader lift capability with zero weight on the 3-point means that you're probably going to stand the tractor on it's nose.

The other arguments about loading up the front end too much, and about helping your rear-wheel traction (in 2wd) are valid too.

Rob
 
   / Balast #14  
Mike, if you're using a FEL, picking up weight in front of the tractor, you need ballast (liquid in the tires, wheel weights, and/or weight on the 3-point hitch) to hold the back end down. Otherwise, you may need it for more traction for pulling ground engaging implements (plows, blades, box blades, etc.), but if you're only using it for mowing, tilling, and such, then you don't need ballast. It just depends on how heavy the tractor is already and what you're going to do with it.

BirdSig.jpg
 

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