Bale Spear

[Brad_Blazer]

Made a bale spear this weekend. Tubing is 3x3x3/16. Spear and socket from Agri Supply. Fired up the SA200 and used 1/8 7018 for everything but the upper pin clevis where I used 7014 because I was running low on 7018. I still need to cap the vertical tube and paint it. Had to test it out first. The closeups are after I unloaded that little bale.

 

[DT86]

That looks as good as any could buy.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Thanks, Forgot to mention I cut out for the spear socket by tracing it with a sharpie and cutting freehand with my Longevity Forcecut 50D, finishing with a die grinder.

 

[stuckmotor]

Good job. I've got an Agri Supply spear myself. It's waiting for me to make it a frame.

 

[Reyer Farms]

Looks too good for the hay I fed this year!!
Nice work.

 

[Arc weld]

Round the corners on the attachment points so it looks finished.

 

[Arc weld]

Round the corners on the attachment points so it looks finished. It looks like you welded the lower 3 pt. brackets with a wide downhand weave. Downhand 7018 has very little penetration and leaves a concave weld. I'd take the spear out and put 2 good passes on in the flat/horizontal position.

 

[creekbend]

Nice job.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Thanks for the positive replies.

Good Advice Arc Weld. I did make those welds in the position you described with the frame face down and the hitch tabs pointing up. No weave, just fed the rod in a straight line. I should have added another pass like I did on the upright, don't remember why I didn't. That particular weld was one of the worst. The rod must have been damaged because I saw a big chunk of coating flake off as it approached the puddle and I got some porosity. Here are some more pics of the welds.

 

[Shield Arc]

I don't mean to criticize, just trying to help! You need to fill your craters more. Also a good way of welding something like this, leave the craters in the center, not out on the edge. Generally the crater is the weakest point of a weld, especially if you don't fill them up.
Otherwise some very nice looking welds! :thumbsup:

 

[Arc weld]

For something that has to hold weight, like a 1000 bale flexing on the 3 pt., downhand 7018 is a bad idea. This isn't a big heavy implement. I don't understand why you couldn't put the tubing flat and put a nice horizontal fillet in? In the one weld, you can see voids and pin holes in the weld. It's a lot easier to fix now than after it breaks.

 

[TomSeller]

Looks well made. Personally, I don't like such a long spear. Long spears make getting away from the bale when stacking them in tight quarters difficult. You don't really need a very long spear to lift a bale.

 

[R W]

Well Done.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

For something that has to hold weight, like a 1000 bale flexing on the 3 pt., downhand 7018 is a bad idea. This isn't a big heavy implement. I don't understand why you couldn't put the tubing flat and put a nice horizontal fillet in? In the one weld, you can see voids and pin holes in the weld. It's a lot easier to fix now than after it breaks.

I thought I said I did have the tubing flat when I made those welds and I will add another pass or 2 to the lower hitch mounts. The only downhand welds I made were on the front side of the upper hitch tabs with 7014. Those shouldn't see much stress.

Thanks for the tip on the craters Shield Arc. Do you have a good technique for finishing up the bead or do you clean it up and add a weld over the crater? I did run the rod back upstream a little before I pulled away but I was pretty hesitant to dwell too long for fear of blowing through the 3/16 tube. The corners do look under-welded in the pics. That tube-tube joint should mainly see compression and shear but I'll fill in the craters before I paint it.

 

[Shield Arc]

I try to make a conscious effort to start the rod 1/2 to 3/4 inch ahead of where I want the weld to start. This allows the rod to be hot when the weld starts. When stopping I change the rod angle to almost 90-degrees to the plate, or maybe a little backwards, and close up the arc length some, (push the rod into the puddle). This helps cool the puddle, then I back up a little to fill the crater.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Belated thanks for the instruction on craters Shield Arc. I beefed up some of the welds but didn't take any more detail pics.

Here are a couple of pictures with it painted and the top capped off. I really like the pin-on spear. It's nice to be able to pull it off when parked and it's easy to handle in 2 pieces.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Looks well made. Personally, I don't like such a long spear. Long spears make getting away from the bale when stacking them in tight quarters difficult. You don't really need a very long spear to lift a bale.

I think it has a lot to do with how tightly the bale is wrapped, or by what kind of baler and how big it is. An open chamber baler tends to make a softer center than a belt type which has a harder core most times. A softer center is going to need a longer spear to support the weight all the way through or it can break apart on a long carry. I prefer the super penetrater types which are fluted and tapered....they are less likely to push the center out of a tight centered bale.