Baling Twine

[barrybro]

For small square bales that will sit outside for an extended period of time, what is the right kind of baling twine to use?

Barry

 

[aczlan]

For small square bales that will sit outside for an extended period of time, what is the right kind of baling twine to use?

Poly twine, anything else will fall apart in short order.

Aaron Z

 

[barrybro]

I have seen some different strenghts (110, 130, 170), when would you use the higher strenths?

 

[aczlan]

I have seen some different strenghts (110, 130, 170), when would you use the higher strenths?

When you make the bales tighter/heavier. If you run the bales light you can use the lighter stuff, however if you crank down on the bales and make 60-100# bales you will need heavier twine.

Aaron Z

 

[MMagis]

I think your bigger problem will be your hay rotting if left to the elements. Square bales don't shed water.

 

[barrybro]

My wife runs a pumpkin patch and we use them for hay bale mazes etc...

Then I use the hay in the spring to fill in some ruts I have in my property.

 

[barrybro]

Harvest Moon Acres

 

[matt21]

Most square baler manufacturers recommend nothing less than 130 knot strength twine. I use 130 poly twine and have made up to an 80# bale with no problems at all. I would never use 110 and really don't have any need for 170 so 130 is where i would stay.

 

[barrybro]

I will be doing straw next year, do I need to think about anything else?

Barry

 

[Niji]

I see twine talk going on here, and I've wondered for awhile what the scoop is on the various kinds. I've read a little buried in another posting from some time ago, but I've wondered about the expected performance of the various kinds of square baler twine.

I'd been using sisal 10,000 twine in a JD 336 I used last year and in a Ford 532 I bought the end of last season. It seemed "normal" to me--just fairly decent wothout outstanding issues. (The 532 ongoing troubles are posted.) I've been going through knotter issues in that baler and just replaced both bill hooks with new ones, and haven't even tried them out yet--it has been torrential here, can't catch a break.

It seems most guys here in this area of Va. use 9,000 sisal twine. I switched over to poly twine to see if that would help matters with my knotters before I replaced the bill hooks. It seems to act the same.

The one thing I have notice with my bales, and those of other farmers, is that the poly seems to just pack a tighter bale. I realize this should be adjustable with the bale box squeezer cranks, but it just seems the poly bales are more tight and springy, which I rather like. I wondered if it just has some elasticity the sisal doesn't? I also had a couple rolls of 10,000 sisal twine get funky from setting in my twine box too long. They got spots on the bottom from the old half rusty metal floor (need to get to that, but actual baling is priority, you know), so every few feet there was a brown weak spot that would break occasionally. I assume poly would have a better shelf life under such circumstances.

Anyway, if there is any particular reason to go with one over another other than bale weight, or perhaps just what a finicky knotter likes best, I'd like to know.

 

[zzvyb6]

Fiber *sisal", "hemp" twine relaxes under tension. Much less with poly. Poly is also the favorite or field mice and chipmunks, who use the plastic to sharpen and erode their teeth on. (If they can get to it). Colored plastic is obviously easier to see, both in the field to grab for the bales when loading, and also when the strings are cut and you don't want them in the animal feed.

 

[Mike120]

My old IH baler wouldn't work with poly twine so I always used sisal. The bales are usually used within a year and stored, but I've never had any twine problems. The sisal I use is treated so bugs and critters seem to leave it alone. I make about a 65# bale and never had any breakage. I also use new rolls every year....old rolls left over winter will always cause problems.

My new JD baler came loaded with poly and I used it on my first cutting. I've already got a roll of sisle tied in for the switch over. The stuff will never break down and I don't want my horses eating it. Sisal will break down because it's a plant.

If you tie with poly and use the old bales to fill ruts, I can guarantee that years from now when you are mowing your future nice, flat, grassy area; that blasted poly twine will come out of the ground and wrap around your mower blades. There is a weird natural attraction between the two.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I see twine talk going on here, and I've wondered for awhile what the scoop is on the various kinds. I've read a little buried in another posting from some time ago, but I've wondered about the expected performance of the various kinds of square baler twine.

I'd been using sisal 10,000 twine in a JD 336 I used last year and in a Ford 532 I bought the end of last season. It seemed "normal" to me--just fairly decent wothout outstanding issues. (The 532 ongoing troubles are posted.) I've been going through knotter issues in that baler and just replaced both bill hooks with new ones, and haven't even tried them out yet--it has been torrential here, can't catch a break.

It seems most guys here in this area of Va. use 9,000 sisal twine. I switched over to poly twine to see if that would help matters with my knotters before I replaced the bill hooks. It seems to act the same.

The one thing I have notice with my bales, and those of other farmers, is that the poly seems to just pack a tighter bale. I realize this should be adjustable with the bale box squeezer cranks, but it just seems the poly bales are more tight and springy, which I rather like. I wondered if it just has some elasticity the sisal doesn't? I also had a couple rolls of 10,000 sisal twine get funky from setting in my twine box too long. They got spots on the bottom from the old half rusty metal floor (need to get to that, but actual baling is priority, you know), so every few feet there was a brown weak spot that would break occasionally. I assume poly would have a better shelf life under such circumstances.

Anyway, if there is any particular reason to go with one over another other than bale weight, or perhaps just what a finicky knotter likes best, I'd like to know.

I set pieces of wood under the twine left in the twine box for storage as this keeps the twine from absorbing moisture from the metal (condensation). I learned this from having the same problem you did, the twine basically rots and gives you all sorts of problems. Since I started putting wood under the twine I have not had any problems and it is easier then pulling the twine out of the box at the end of the season.