Barn door design

blaze · May 10, 2001

I am looking for a proven design for hinged barn doors. Each one will be 8' X 6'. I know that most tend to sag over the years. A sliding door is not an option for me. Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

GlueGuy · May 11, 2001

Mike,

For a door that big I have two suggestions:

1. Use at least 4 hinges
2. Put a diagonal brace in from the bottom inside of the door to the top outside. Most people put the diagonal the opposite way, and wood does not work well in tension like that. Better (if using a wood diagonal brace) that it's in compression.

Another way to do it is to put a steel cable from the top inside to the bottom outside (this is in tension), and put a turnbuckle in it. That way if/when the door does start to sag, you just tighten up on the turnbuckle.

The GlueGuy

AndyR · May 11, 2001

Mike:

You might try a chevron-style door. I think they were most popular in the 1920's (but am not at all sure on that). Anyway - start with an inside layer of either 1x lumber or 3/4" external grade plywood and the layer v-groove pine on the outside at a 40 degree angle or so. The other door should have the boards going on the opposite slope. You can also put some horzontal and vertical boards to frame the effect - depending how fancy you want to get. 'Hope this description makes sense.

The advantage of the two layered approach is that it reinforces in multiple directions. My workshop doors are just vertical T&G boards on a couple of planks and so they sag toward the middle - the chevron design avoids that. Another thing - dry fit the whole thing on the ground and then dissasemble and prime every surface - your door will last MUCH longer (course ya' gotta paint it too - after it's up).

Good Luck!

Andy in NH

blaze · May 11, 2001

Thanks guys, both great ideas. I'm a couple of weeks away from that project as I am in the process of siding the barn. I will let you know how the doors turned out.

Mike

RMulkey · May 12, 2001

Glue, Glue, Glue,

I recomend you glue the coss and diagonals with a polyurathane water proof glue. The doors will not sag if they are well glued to eliminate any changes in shape. I have used this on several exterior barn doors with great results. The glue can be a little expensive but well worth the money.

-Roger

cowboydoc · May 12, 2001

Mike,
I don't know your situation but could you use a rollup door? They can usually be put anywhere. I would think with an 8 foot by 6 foot door no matter how well you build it you are going to have problems. Another idea is instead of making an 8x6 door make two 8x3 doors and fasten them in the middle.

GlueGuy · May 12, 2001

<font color=blue>Glue, Glue, Glue,</font color=blue>

You talking to me?!? /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The GlueGuy

GlueGuy · May 12, 2001

Doc,

I may be miss-reading the original post (wouldn't be the first time /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif), but my read on it is that he was talking about two 8x6 doors already.

The GlueGuy

blaze · May 13, 2001

Yes, I need two 8X6 doors to handle a 12' opening. I don't really want a roll-up due to expense and loss of ceiling height when in the open position. Door will stay open most of the time here in central Florida, except of course when in dips into the 40's.

I assume I will need gussets at each corner no matter what design I go with, correct?

Just for kicks, does anyone know how much a roll-up door for that opening would cost?