Barn Pad

[LukeDuke30]

Discussed many times -due to lack of interest of any local contractors, I will be doing it myself with my Massey 1734. Barn is a 30x48, so I will make the pad 40x54 roughly. It is on a very elevated, level spot so I will only be removing topsoil. Builder requires pad to be within 3''. They will erect the barn level, and then I will back fill/pack later with gravel in preparation for concrete.

Plan is to roto till 2'' at a time, and use the loader/box blade to remove the loose topsoil. Repeat until I hit the hard clay that resides underneath about 4-6''. Any other suggestions? I am just going to take my time but it doesn't seem too difficult.

Thanks,

Luke

 

[RNeumann]

Typically you “grass off” or remove the organics as you describe. I’m not sure I’d rototill but I guess you do what you got to do. I wouldn’t be doing much cut/fill under the building with that small of a machine.

If they are doing a true pole barn with drilled holes into the ground I’d import a lot of the base before they start. Much easier to get things close to level. Plus you get a nice work site and it’s easier to grade without a building in the way. Then you do just a little tuning before and after the flat work.

 

[ovrszd]

How ironic. I was talking to a friend about this.

There's 3 things to remember when building a pad. Details. Details. Details.

Your builder may only require a 3" accuracy. But that's because he's not doing the floor prep. 3" in 30ft. You can eyeball better than that!!!! Don't move forward with the build until you are within an inch!!! Is 3" acceptable for your concrete? Of course not. Then why would you want to finish by hand inside a building when you have the opportunity to do it without restrictions and with your equipment.

Pad size. I think you are too small. You've only got 3 or 4 feet around the outside of the building. Remember, your building is going to be constructed on top of the pad. So when completed you will be finish grading up to it. If that elevation is 6" you don't have much horizontal run to accomplish that. So your grade has a considerable fall away from the building. Over time it will erode away. I woul want 6-8 ft of pad on each side. 10ft if possible.

Build your pad flat. Over build your pad. Do these things with patience and pride. You will be rewarded in the quality of your project.

Post pics when you get started.

 

[3Ts]

Pad size. I think you are too small. You've only got 3 or 4 feet around the outside of the building. Remember, your building is going to be constructed on top of the pad. So when completed you will be finish grading up to it. If that elevation is 6" you don't have much horizontal run to accomplish that. So your grade has a considerable fall away from the building. Over time it will erode away. I woul want 6-8 ft of pad on each side. 10ft if possible.

+1 I had to go back later and add more all around mine, it was much more expensive than if I'd done it as part of the original pad.

 

[cholland]

Yes, make the pad bigger. I would suggest a least large enough to drive around the completed building. Get it as level as you can and slope that area around the outside away from the pad. Just a little, maybe an inch over 8-10 ft.
Does your box blade have ripper tines? If so you should be able to lower those, tip the box forward a bit and loosen the top soil without having to rototill it first. Then raise the tines, level the box and scoop the top soil away.
The float setting on the loader bucket is really nice for smoothing out in the end too.

 

[PineBrookFarm]

I just finished up my pole barn that has a foot print of 52x60 which includes a 12x60 overhang shed roof off one side. Always make the pad bigger than you think you need. I would plan for at LEAST 10' in every direction. So for your building the pad should be about 50x70, trust me it will make your life and the builders life so much easier. That way you can get a truck, tractor 4x4 forklift etc all the way around the building. The pad for my building ended up being around 100x100 and it really was marginal at best when trying to move a telehandler around the site with 42' trusses etc.

 

[radios1]

use a compactor so the dirt don't sink, and make the concrete crack, and make the concrete at least 4" deep, more is better..

 

[LukeDuke30]

As it turns out, one of the contractors I spoke with before is now able to do it. Pad will probably be closer to 50x60 because we have an 8' porch on it. We will also be extending our driveway back the barn so that will be part of the project. I will post some pics as we go.