Barrel ballast top link question

[GamblerAcres]

I've read as many barrel ballast threads as I could find on TBN but I couldn't find an answer to my question concerning the top link mount location. Does is matter how high/low, fore or aft the top mount is located in relation to the lift arm mounts as long as the top link doesn't contact the barrel during operation? I've read about possible binding of the top link but wasn't sure what that exactly meant. Can it bind based on the 3 point geometry alone or does "binding" simply mean contacting the barrel causing additional stress on the toplink?

I'll be using a drawbar through the barrel for the lift arm links. Thanks in advance!

Also, is a cat 1 drawbar adequate for the weight or should I go cat 2?.

 

[Xfaxman]

Will a cat 2 drawbar fit your 3 point? Cat 2 has larger pins.

Can it bind based on the 3 point geometry alone

Yes.

or does "binding" simply mean contacting the barrel causing additional stress on the toplink?

If it binds, it can bend the toplink.

I'll be using a drawbar through the barrel for the lift arm links.

That makes it harder to use a Quick Hitch in the future.

Use these dimensions for a barrel, (open in a new tab to read it):

I recommend getting a Quick Hitch now and build a square ballast box to fit it.

 

[GamblerAcres]

Will a cat 2 drawbar fit your 3 point? Cat 2 has larger pins.

Yes.

If it binds, it can bend the toplink.



That makes it harder to use a Quick Hitch in the future.

Use these dimensions for a barrel, (open in a new tab to read it):

View attachment 579603


I recommend getting a Quick Hitch now and build a square ballast box to fit it.

I'm trying to build this on the cheap so a quick hitch is out of the question. Kubota states a cat 1/2 hitch for my tractor so cat 2 will fit.

How does the geometry alone cause binding? Shouldn't the top link swing freely regardless of placement (except for extreme angles of course)? Not trying to be confrontational just trying to learn.

 

[Ford850]

It would only cause binding on the edge of the barrel. You can shorten the top link to avoid that if it's an issue, but then the top of barrel is tilted forward. I made one on the cheap and have it posted on this site somewhere in another ballast thread. I'll try to find that and post a link here.

Coincidentally, I just put it on the back of my tractor an hour ago while prepping it for winter snow.

Here's a good thread with some ideas and a few pictures of mine: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/130192-55-gal-rear-weight.html I describe what I used to make mine in post #5 with pictures in post #23.

 

[Xfaxman]

The top link hole should be straight above the draw bar pins

That is hard to do with a drawbar in a barrel.

This one will bend the toplink where the arrow is pointing, when raised up farther:

There are other ways to use a drawbar in barrel that will work.

Pictures from a Google Image Search.

 

[Fallon]

I went the other way for attaching a 3pt drawbar to my ballast barrel. An incompetent baboon with a welder & a plasma cutter was good enough. The failure mode if my crap welds fails is pretty low so I dont wory about it.

The air tank let me down & leaked so I made it into a ballast box. Heavier than a 55 gallon drum by a good bit. I should reinforce the hole for the top hook, but tilting the QH forward takes the load off. Its QH only, at least with the current top hook setup.

Make it QH compatible now if there is ever a chance you will use one. Cat1 & Cat2 QH arent interchangeable due to width differences. The pin diameters are easy enough to change with bushings. So go with one or the other.

All things being equal I hardly ever use my ballast box. Whatever impliment I used recently or will use next works just as well. The ballast box is more compact, but I rarely if ever have manuverability constraints because of impliments.

 

[GamblerAcres]

The top link hole should be straight above the draw bar pins

View attachment 579624


That is hard to do with a drawbar in a barrel.

This one will bend the toplink where the arrow is pointing, when raised up farther:

View attachment 579612


There are other ways to use a drawbar in barrel that will work.

Pictures from a Google Image Search.

So as long as the top link isn't contacting the barrel everything will be fine, correct?

I suppose you could notch out the area under the toplink if you needed more clearance. Or you could have made the top link mount a little taller or closer to the front edge?

What other ways do you speak of?

 

[Xfaxman]

Correct.

From the many threads here, it is what you mentioned.

 

[nwut05]

Ok, if you haven't figured it out yet, get you a metal 55 gal drum cut two holes opposite one another so your draw bar slides through tack weld them if possible to keep them from turning while filling. For the top link just drop down a couple inches on the barrel and go to tractor supply or one of the farm stores in your area and get you a sway bar around 20 or 25 bucks. bend it in a u shape or cut it in two pieces and stick the holes out of the barrel where the t top link connection should be in the barrel so you have pre made top link pin holes. Secure if possible with a few tack welds to hold them in place while you fill the barrel. Then fill that Sucker with concrete. you will have all the ballast you ever need and don't have to worry about the top link binding because it sets below the lip of the barrel. Just make sure when you make the top link connection to have the right spacing or it will be a pain to get it connected. iv'e made a couple of these over the years and they always work great and usually cost way less than a hundred to build even buying new draw bar and top link material. The last one i did i got my linkage tack welded in and set it on the back of the truck and drove to the concrete plant and just told them what i wanted and they filled her up right out of the plant cost around 40 bucks if i remember correctly. hope this helps