Basement Remodel help

[Doc_Bob]

I am going to start working on remodeling part of my basement. The basement is dry (was very wet in the past) since I installed gutters and downspouts (the first 35 years of it's existence it had no gutters!!!!!). No mold. I have not tested for radon, should I?

Looks like I have about an area 28 ft by 18 ft. Ceiling is about 8 ft. Cement floor with one drain and one sump pump.

I looked at the Owens/Corning basement "system". Nice system, but has only 4 inches of insulation in the walls. I was thinking I would do better with more insulation. 6 inches? 12 inches? I JUST HATE being cold.

What I need is your past experiences and wisdom. Should I just rough it out with 2x4? Wood or steel studs and put up drywall? Blueboard?
Bob

 

[chrpmaster]

Is your basement below grade? When I finished my basement I went with the 2x4 stud walls and R13 insulation. After having it over half studded I saw that Owens Corning system. It looks like it would have been lots faster in the general living spaces (any area without drain vents and lots of other stuff in the walls). Mine is mostly below grade and 1500 watt oil filled space heater takes care of it.

YMMV

Andy

 

[2manyrocks]

Doesn't look like this is a tractor project.

If you think there might be radon and you intend to live in the house, maybe you should test.

Suggest you read about wood v. steel and fiberglass v. foam board insulation in basements on the Fine Homebuilding website at Taunton Press. It's been a while since I looked at this, but it seems like the recommended approach if there is any question about moisture is to seal the walls with drylock or similar product, put up nonwater absorbing foam board on the block walls, and then install steel studs over the foam board. When you run electrical wiring, be sure to use the plastic inserts in the studs to protect the wires from the sharp edges on the steel. If you have any moisture concerns, you could use moisture resistant drywall at least on the lower part of the walls.

If the basement is all below grade, I'm not sure that you need the same amount of insulation as above grade because the wind certainly won't be blowing through it. It's just a matter of isolating the living space from the surrounding earth.

Don't know anything about the OC system.

 

[Red55]

You can check for radon with a detector similiar to smoke detector my brother found one on the net for $100 or you can buy those canisters that you leave exposed for a certain amount of time and then mail out to the lab. You mention that you have a sump pump the pit will be a source for radon On one house we actually tied into the sump drainage pipe and used that to exhaust the radon out from the basement. We installed the fan in the attic over the garage to keep the noise down.

When I finish a basement I use a product called thoro seal. It's the same product used for sealing concrete pools. Then I give it a coat of exterior paint then I install foam and then stud out with 2X4's. I leave at least an inch gap between the foam and the studding wall to keep the wood from wicking any moisture and it also allows for a fudge factor to get the walls plum and straight. For sheetrock the manufacturers have a new fiberglass based sheetrock that mold won't grow on. It is a little more expensive but definitely worth it. Also on the ceilings I use 5/8 firecode. It lays flatter and offers some fire protection. On floors I use ceramnic tile or vinyl- no carpet or wood. Just my 2cents -Ed

 

[Doc_Bob]

On floors I use ceramnic tile or vinyl- no carpet or wood. Just my 2cents -Ed

I have wondered about radiant heat with tile. Any thoughts?
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

You can check for radon with a detector similiar to smoke detector my brother found one on the net for $100 or you can buy those canisters that you leave exposed for a certain amount of time and then mail out to the lab. You mention that you have a sump pump the pit will be a source for radon On one house we actually tied into the sump drainage pipe and used that to exhaust the radon out from the basement. We installed the fan in the attic over the garage to keep the noise down.

-Ed

I ordered both types of Radon detectors online last night. My house is 35 years old, so I am not sure how radon abatement would work using the sump, but a good idea.
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

Is your basement below grade? When I finished my basement I went with the 2x4 stud walls and R13 insulation. After having it over half studded I saw that Owens Corning system. It looks like it would have been lots faster in the general living spaces (any area without drain vents and lots of other stuff in the walls). Mine is mostly below grade and 1500 watt oil filled space heater takes care of it.


Andy

Yes, the basement is below grade. After you saw the OC system, would you use it if you had it to do over? 1500 watt heater for how big of a space?
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

It's been a while since I looked at this, but it seems like the recommended approach if there is any question about moisture is to seal the walls with drylock or similar product, put up nonwater absorbing foam board on the block walls, and then install steel studs over the foam board. When you run electrical wiring, be sure to use the plastic inserts in the studs to protect the wires from the sharp edges on the steel. If you have any moisture concerns, you could use moisture resistant drywall at least on the lower part of the walls.

.

Nice ideas. Do you suggest fiberglass insulation in the spaces between the steel studs (over the rigid insulation on the concrete block wall)?
Bob

 

[FULLPULL]

They make a new product for patching concrete called xypex and we check and patch all cracks before we begin this stuff grows in the concrete and seals it then a coat of thoro seal over all of the block .We always staple a layer of 4 mil poly/plastic to the foundation plate on the basment wall before we install the studs . It keeps wood studs from rotting/rusting out they will pick up moisture. If you develop a leak the water should run down behind the plastic before doing any damage .We also use treated lumber for the bottom plate and set it on top of the plastic if posable. This is the way we have done it for years and have had good results. When you are below grade any insulation will help R-13 OR R-19 . I had to edit about the thoro seal it is a resonable price for what you get it is a good product for unpainted block.

 

[Doc_Bob]

When you are below grade any insulation will help R-13 OR R-19 .

Any value in higher than R-19?
Bob