Basic questions from new owner

[MarkV]

Small leaks are not unusual at all on a new machine. Just grab some wrenches and snug up each fitting. Unrelated but check you lug nuts also. I have had two new tractors with loose lugs during the first week. Like Kevin, I would spray some lube on the valve and see if that does not loosen things up.

MarkV

 

[N1ST]

Got the opportunity to snug the lug nuts - fronts needed it after 5 hours, backs didn't. I also got the opportunity to snap some pics so my questions will be easier to answer

So, looking a the enclosed pics, my FEL controller has 4 QDs on top, the input and output on back and the PB on the right side. ...at least that'a my understanding.

My questions...

The input/output on the back use what type of connectors? Are these 1/4" JIC?

Is the molded nut at the end a seprate piece from the nut right behind it? If I were to tighten these a bit, how would I do that (ie hold the nut closest to the controller with a wrench while tightening the night right behind it, then tighten the nut closest to the controller??).

 

[Farmerford]

N1ST

Your pump, tank, and power beyond ports in the valve appear to be O-ring boss with adapters to connect with JIC female (swivel) hose ends. The "molded nut" you refer to serves a mechanical function only: it holds the JIC 37 degree female flare fitting in the hose end tightly agains the JIC 37 degree male flare on the O-ring adapter. Therefore you turn the molded nut while holding the nut nearest the hose.

The nut nearest the hose is part of the JIC female flare attached to the hose. The female flare mates to the male flare in the adapter attached to the valve, and you do not want the mating surfaces to turn on each other because that could gall the flare surfaces and make a good seal impossible. Therefore, by holding the nut nearest the hose you keep the flare surfaces from turning relative to each other while you are tightening the molded nut to put pressure on the flare connection.