Battery issues and what I've learned.

   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #1  

EddieWalker

Epic Contributor
Joined
May 26, 2003
Messages
26,597
Location
Tyler, Texas
Tractor
Several, all used and abused.
I have a 2010 Scag Wildcat zero turn mower with a 26hp Kawasaki water cooled engine that has been both great and riddled with electrical issues from all the safety sensors on it. I've bypassed all the safety switches after wasting too many hours figuring out which one wasn't working, only to have another stop working.

Last year my battery died just before winter, so I just jumped it the few times I mowed to finish off the season and then when the grass started growing again this year, I bought a new battery and did all my maintenance on it.

The battery went dead after I installed it, but after jumping it, it worked fine. I wasn't happy about jumping it, but didn't think about it again after that. A few months later, the switch to turn on and turn off the blades quite working. I replaced it from a source online that was a few bucks cheaper then my dealer. Everything worked great for a few a week, then I blew a 20 amp fuse that ran from the PTO clutch to the mower button. I replaced the fuse and it blew again after ten minutes of mowing. I searched all over and couldn't find any issues with the wires, so I asked my dealer what could be the cause of this.

His first question was about my battery. Since it was a new battery, I said that it couldn't be the problem. Then he asked where I got the switch and he said to never buy online, only buy from the dealer. I thought he was full of it and just trying to sell me stuff instead of finding it cheaper somewhere else.

So after a month of not being able to mow, frustrated at not being able to figure it out, and not wanting to spend the money on a new PTO clutch for a low hour mower, I finally found an article explaining what happens when you have a bad battery and how your mower will blow it's 20 amp fuse.

If the battery is bad, the PTO clutch works harder to charge the battery. This creates more electricity going to the battery, and under load, while mowing, will blow the fuse.

So I bought a new battery and replaced the pto switch with one from the dealer and everything is all better.

Two lessons that I learned that I wanted to share. Buy a good battery, it really makes a huge difference for zero turn mowers. And be careful of those cheaper replacement parts!!!!

The good battery only cost me $50, so there really was no excuse for buying the other one, and the switch from the dealer was only $32, which was about five dollars more then what I paid online for the cheap one.
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #2  
I would thought too that my "new" battery couldn't be the problem. Glad it worked out for you. Mind sharing the link about the issues found.?
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #3  
Thanks for the info, and glad you got it working. Electric issues are always perplexing especially tracking stuff from a source.
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I would thought too that my "new" battery couldn't be the problem. Glad it worked out for you. Mind sharing the link about the issues found.?

Sorry, i was googling for days and reading so many comments and suggestions that it's all a blur. Most where focussing on the wiring. A few where about the PTO Clutch either being out of adjustment, or just needing replacement. It was while reading a post about how to replace a PTO Clutch that I came across the comments about the battery being too week to hold a charge and when the mower is under load, the PTO Clutch generates more electricity to charge the battery then the 20 amp fuse can handle.

That comment clicked in my brain and all of a sudden, it made sense to me what was happening. I'm just hoping that somebody will find this post when they have the same problem. Google brought me back to TBN multiple times in my search, but never to exactly what I was dealing with.
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #5  
It's not like the old days regarding batteries... so much is dependent of good reliable power and without it you either have gremlins or stress other parts...

Glad you got it solved and thanks for posting!
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #6  
Sorry, i was googling for days and reading so many comments and suggestions that it's all a blur. Most where focussing on the wiring. A few where about the PTO Clutch either being out of adjustment, or just needing replacement. It was while reading a post about how to replace a PTO Clutch that I came across the comments about the battery being too week to hold a charge and when the mower is under load, the PTO Clutch generates more electricity to charge the battery then the 20 amp fuse can handle.

That comment clicked in my brain and all of a sudden, it made sense to me what was happening. I'm just hoping that somebody will find this post when they have the same problem. Google brought me back to TBN multiple times in my search, but never to exactly what I was dealing with.

Gotta love goggle! Been there.:thumbsup:
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #7  
Electrical trouble shooting 101, always start with a known fully charged good battery, verified by a load test. The local big box auto parts emporium will load test batteries for free.
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #8  
Electrical trouble shooting 101, always start with a known fully charged good battery, verified by a load test. The local big box auto parts emporium will load test batteries for free.

+1. Also, a few modern battery charger types can diagnose and sometimes fix a "bad" battery- sometimes at least temporarily for troubleshooting. I use these: Amazon.com: NOCO G26 GENIUS BATTERY CHARGER: NOCO: Automotive
Amazon.com: CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 72 12-Volt Battery Charger: Automotive

While working on the wife's JD lawn tractor recently, I unknowingly left the key in the "on" position. Three weeks later it would not start- dead two year old Wal-mart standard type battery. I put the charger on it and it would only hold a charge for a few hours. Then put the CTEK charger on it in "Recondition" mode and left it overnight. Battery worked okay for a couple weeks and then went dead again and this time battery charger indicated problem with battery (with a relay clicking.) Just received a new AGM battery that is on the charger and hope this one lasts longer than two years. Typically I only purchase AGM replacement batteries for my vehicles and have no clue why I purchased the other battery two years ago.
 
   / Battery issues and what I've learned. #9  
I do not understand how a PTO clutch generates electricity.

The best thing I have found to avoid battery problems is the Battery Tender Jr. I have several that I rotate among the equipment and motorcycles during winter. I try to hit each battery at least once a month and I get very good life out of the batteries.
 

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