Battery (or starting) Problem

[HillStreet]

Hey Everybody:
This concerns my Kubota zero turn which is idle in the shed during the winter. Instead of leaving well enough alone, I just had to screw it up. I wanted to install electrical extensions from the battery to a convenient spot on the frame so I can hook up the BatteryMinder (maybe BatteryTender). I fully charged the battery before connecting the battery and my extension痴 ring terminals. Volt meter said 13.4 volts with no load.

Then I sit in the seat to start and it just GROANS when I turn the key. This groaning sound drops right off, then repeats when I turn the key off then on again. I don稚 know, what may be going on?

 

[Wagtail]

Volts are one thing... what are the Amps? It's the Amps that provide the 'Ooomph' to initially start/turn-over the engine.

Your charger will indicate a full charge (Volts). I leave the charger on for a few more hours to increase the Amps.

 

[Thomas]

Is the battery frozen...how old the battery.
Bring the battery inside for winter storage???

 

[HillStreet]

Is the battery frozen...how old the battery.
Bring the battery inside for winter storage???

It has been on the mower out in the shed. When I disconnected it to install the BatteryTender extension with the battery rings I did the charge with my other charger for 36 hours or so. It was 40 degrees today but of course the cold sink is way low. The machine was new in June 2016.

 

[WranglerX]

Get the polarity right when reconnecting?.... Just adding extensions should not effect how battery actually operates starter and ignition... Battery could be toast....

Take battery to a O'Rileys or "other " auto parts store and have it tested..... Most of the new batteries made in last five years are really lucky to last 3 years any more....

Dale

 

[HillStreet]

Volts are one thing... what are the Amps? It's the Amps that provide the 'Ooomph' to initially start/turn-over the engine.

Your charger will indicate a full charge (Volts). I leave the charger on for a few more hours to increase the Amps.

And how can I check the amps in that there ooomph?

 

[HillStreet]

Get the polarity right when reconnecting?.... Just adding extensions should not effect how battery actually operates starter and ignition... Battery could be toast.... Let it sit on low charge rate for 24 hours and try again....

Dale

Yeah polarity is good. I know the ring terminals are not the issue but was just explaining the procedure that got us here. Also, I should note I drove it into the shed when I put it away in November.

 

[WranglerX]

And how can I check the amps in that there ooomph?

Have it checked for "capacity" at FLAPS...

Dale

 

[RjCorazza]

Your mower likely came with a Deka 51r battery, which is a quality battery. It takes very little resistance at the battery terminals to create a no start condition. If you removed or loosened the terminals when installing your external charger terminals I would recommend you remove, clean and reattach the battery cables.
Other areas of poor connections are the ground straps to frame, and the front surface of the starter itself.

 

[jaydee325]

Electrical trouble shooting 101: Start with a known good battery. The best way to determine if your battery is good is pull it and fully charge it. Then take it to your local big box auto parts emporium and have it load tested for free.

 

[HillStreet]

Your mower likely came with a Deka 51r battery, which is a quality battery. It takes very little resistance at the battery terminals to create a no start condition. If you removed or loosened the terminals when installing your external charger terminals I would recommend you remove, clean and reattach the battery cables.
Other areas of poor connections are the ground straps to frame, and the front surface of the starter itself.

I’ll check all these things. I should have just left it and just started in spring per usual. I think it just may be too cold and it also has 30W in the crankcase.

 

[RjCorazza]

I currently have optima yellow top batteries in both of my ZD mowers. They have a low self discharge rate, and do fine sitting over the winter.
If you are talking true straight 30w oil, then that will definitely cause a slow cranking engine.
Good luck.

 

[jaxs]

When it come's to electrical,what always works for me is,if it start's,mess with it until it won't then mess with it some more. :banghead:
Seriously,you can do a couple seat of pants checks that might reveal the problem. Carfully trace route and connections on both cables from battery posts to starter and ground connection to engine block. Never mind the safty switches for clutch,seat and gear shift (check those when nothing happens),just the two battery cables at each place they are clamped or bolted at connections. Try starting engine then quickly touch a finger to each connection point(esp cable to post). The poor connection will usually be hot. To get a pretty good snapshot of battery condition,inlist an assistant or put clips on volt meter leads. With volt meter on posts (NOT CABLES),you should see 12.6 to 12.7 if battery is fully charged. Try starting engine while watching meter. If meter drop's below 11.5,you have a bad starter or bad battery. If volts jump back to within .1 volt of original reading,starter is suspect. If it reads more than .3 volts less,battery is suspect. Take suspected part to have tested by pros.