Battery or..?

[Boondox]

Another battery question. The 57 Dodge pickup we recently bought is awfully hard starting first thing in the morning, and never has "started right up." The battery gives us about 15 seconds cumulative cranking time before it really seems to lose power, i.e., the truck cranks slower and s l o w e r until I wonder if it's gonna start at all.

I noticed the alternator belt was very loose, so that was tightened up. Had to push start the truck, but as soon as the engine caught the ampmeter pegged all the way to the right for about 20 minutes before dropping down to the normal position. Problem solved, I thought.

But the next morning I had to push start it again. Again I noticed the amps pegging the gauge for a few minutes. Figured I might have a short or some sort of trickle. Installed a master switch to completely isolate the battery till I could check things out.

But again the next morning, even after isolating the battery, it just barely started...and again the amps were pegged for several minutes.

So I figured the maintenance-free battery was failing to hold a charge despite the little light glowing green on top. But my local NAPA dealer tested the battery and declared it was still good. Ditto for the charging system.

The battery terminals are clean -- shiny clean from a terminal brush. Next step is to check all my wiring for corrosion-free connections. But then what? Are these old trucks supposed to be that difficult to start?

Pete

 

[Wingnut]

based on all the problems that I've had with starters over the years in various vehicles ... the first thing I'd check is the ground to the starter.

 

[Egon]

The starter may be drawing too many amps. An indication it may need replacement. Also check lines for bare wires shorting out. My guess is starter.
Egon

 

[bgott]

You need to do a starter amp draw test. Anyone with an inductive multimeter can do it, just clamp the amp clamp on the cable running to the starter, set it on DC amps and crank the truck. Most will pull less than 200 amps. For example, an eighties Ford pickup with a 302 pulls around a 180 amps with a good starter. I used that example because that's the last one I checked. Another test you need to do is voltage drop test on the cables. Put your multi meter on DC volts and put one lead on the battery positive and the other lead on the starter cable post. Have someone crank the truck and watch the display. Two or three volts are normal, if you see six or eight volts you need a new cable end or a new cable. Do the same thing on the ground side. A lot of times you'll have a loose connection on the starter or block. Pull them off and clean them. The ammeter is going to peg on starting on that truck even if everything is right, those old charging systems didn't put out very much.

 

[RichZ]

Pete, just to make your life more complicated, check the voltage regulator.

 

[MikePA]

So, exactly how far does Tam have to push you and the truck until it starts!!! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif