Mowing Belly vs Rear Mower
- Thread starter MikePA
- Start date
- Views: 1971
Bird
Rest in Peace
Mike, I think the most important thing to consider is the fact that when you turn, that rear mower is going to swing out in the opposite direction; very easy to hit trees, fences, buildings, etc. so go slow and easy on the turns while looking back to see how far out it swings until you get used to it. Once you get accustomed to it, I think a major advantage is the ability to back it into corners and under low limbs and bushes. And of course, it's easier to hook up and unhook than a belly mower, too.
Bird
Bird
GlueGuy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,654
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
Mike,
This is beginning to sound like a broken record, but "like Bird says" is sound advice. The first couple of times I used the rear mower was a bit of a challenge, but once I got used to it, I realized that it offers some advantages that would be impossible with a MMM.
One thing that Bird did not mention, that I discovered the second time I was using the rear mower, is that it allows me to "back up" to a steep drop off (parts of our land slopes off at 45 degrees, and even a BX cannot handle that). I back up to the edge, and keep it "cantilevered" over the edge, then slowly lower it to the angle of the land, then I slowly go forward, while simultaneously easing the top link forward.
This allows me to mow the top edge, and below for about 4 or 5 feet. Before this, the only way to mow that was with a weed whacker. The rear mower takes a much bigger bite, and it takes a whole lot less muscle power.
The GlueGuy
This is beginning to sound like a broken record, but "like Bird says" is sound advice. The first couple of times I used the rear mower was a bit of a challenge, but once I got used to it, I realized that it offers some advantages that would be impossible with a MMM.
One thing that Bird did not mention, that I discovered the second time I was using the rear mower, is that it allows me to "back up" to a steep drop off (parts of our land slopes off at 45 degrees, and even a BX cannot handle that). I back up to the edge, and keep it "cantilevered" over the edge, then slowly lower it to the angle of the land, then I slowly go forward, while simultaneously easing the top link forward.
This allows me to mow the top edge, and below for about 4 or 5 feet. Before this, the only way to mow that was with a weed whacker. The rear mower takes a much bigger bite, and it takes a whole lot less muscle power.
The GlueGuy
GlueGuy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,654
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
If you're using a FEL, it's always advisable to have a counterweight (either an implement, or filled tires, or both). When I use the FEL, I always have my box scraper attached, but the mower weighs almost as much, and sticks out fartherm so it would work real well too. Only problem with that plan is that it would cut down on maneuverability.
The GlueGuy
The GlueGuy
Bird
Rest in Peace
Well, Mike, like GlueGuy says, I most frequently use my box blade for a counterweight; doesn't stick out as far behind me, makes the rig a little more maneuverable, and then of course, if I ever do something really dumb (a good possibility) like swinging it into a tree or something, that box blade isn't as likely to get damaged, and if it does, it didn't cost me a third what the mower cost./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif However, if you aren't concerned about those two possibilities, the mower makes a fine counterweight./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Bird
Bird
Von
Veteran Member, Advertiser
Mike,
I had a 6 ft. rear finish mower on my B8200 that I just sold and now have a 6 ft. belly mower on my B2710. Like Bird says, a 3 pt. mower is better for backing up under trees and for ease of putting on and off. (although I can take the MMM off and on in about as fast as the 3 pt mower on the B2710) One thing that I did notice is that the cut is much better with the MMM! My lawn looks like a fairway now. I had a woods 3 pt. mower before so it was not the mower, it was the fact that the rear tires were pushing the grass down before that mower cut. The only part I don't like, is in the spring when the grass is wet and you have to clean the bottom of the mower. I have to use a cherry picker to lift the mower deck on its side to clean it. Other than that I am sold on the belly mower.
I had a 6 ft. rear finish mower on my B8200 that I just sold and now have a 6 ft. belly mower on my B2710. Like Bird says, a 3 pt. mower is better for backing up under trees and for ease of putting on and off. (although I can take the MMM off and on in about as fast as the 3 pt mower on the B2710) One thing that I did notice is that the cut is much better with the MMM! My lawn looks like a fairway now. I had a woods 3 pt. mower before so it was not the mower, it was the fact that the rear tires were pushing the grass down before that mower cut. The only part I don't like, is in the spring when the grass is wet and you have to clean the bottom of the mower. I have to use a cherry picker to lift the mower deck on its side to clean it. Other than that I am sold on the belly mower.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Von, you and I have different climates, different lawn conditions, etc. so that may make quite a difference, but my 3-point Bush Hog cuts just as clean and pretty as my Cub Cadet riding mower ever did. This morning I had to go a little slower than normal in a few places with some very thin "needle" grass or it wouldn't cut real clean. So when I finished mowing, I pulled all 3 blades off, cleaned and sharpened them for the first time (a year and a three-quarters old) so I can run faster next time. Normally on the open stretches where I don't have to watch to not damage anything, I run wide open in mid-range and still get a good cut.
Bird
Bird