Rear Finish Mower Belts won't disengage Swisher Trailmower

[AppleMan]

I've got a Swisher 66 inch Trailmower and the mower belts gave out. Last time this happened I put new belts on and had no problems. When I put the belts on and tried them this time, though, they kept turning when I disengaged the mower blades. They're not running full speed when this happens, but the belts are still running at a moderate pace when they shouldn't be.

Is there something obvious I'm overlooking? Did I overtighten the idler engage rod spring on the bottom deck?

Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

check he idler and engagment mechanish. I have seen both solenoid and cable engagement and lever engagement styles. .. sometimes grass and dirt prevents the mechanism from returning to neutral position even with spring help.

 

[Capricious]

If this is your machine-

http://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/24653.pdf

-then it doesn't appear that there is a blade brake of any sort that acts to stop the blades completely. I am a bit surpised at that because my Swisher brush mower has a blade brake, as does my Sears mower deck on a garden tractor.

With no blade brake, the blades can still spin a bit due to the friction of even slack belts. Are the new belts a bit shorter than the old ones? Are the idlers releasing fully? (re: your comment on the engage rod- yes, it may be too tight and not fully releasing).

 

[boggen]

follow what others have said FIRST.
when settling the tension / idler pully, your manual should denote how much "defletion" the belt should have on it, it may be 1/2" to 3/4" to other.

on another note: i have had issues of wrong size belts, same make/model number on belt. but just slightly different size of being too small. i keep my old belts, regardless of worn out or broken, after a few different back and forth. finally got correct size belt. in my case it wasn't dealer fault, i looked right at there screen, and belts they order. *shrugs* sadly dealer had to pocket some crud for dealing with wrong size belts.

on other note: if dealer offers cheap to expensive belt options for ya. there can be a difference between how quickly they were out, along with how much they stretch and how much they slip.
it has been to long since needed a new belt for a mower deck, so i have done forgot, the basics of belt types and there qualities. *woops*

i personally avoid any of the "belt conditioners" for better grip / less slip, to cleaning the belts to make them last. i have had belts wear faster when trying the stuff out, vs just going out and buying a replacement belt when needed.

 

[AppleMan]

Yup that's the model. The new belts are the same length (30 inches and 150 inches). I will try to loosen up the engage rod spring and see if that helps!

 

[AppleMan]

Unfortunately the manual is garbage and doesn't list how to swap out belts/tension, etc. I called Swisher and they said 1/4-1/2 inch, which is what it is now. I'll play with it. Thanks everyone for their help!

follow what others have said FIRST.
when settling the tension / idler pully, your manual should denote how much "defletion" the belt should have on it, it may be 1/2" to 3/4" to other.

on another note: i have had issues of wrong size belts, same make/model number on belt. but just slightly different size of being too small. i keep my old belts, regardless of worn out or broken, after a few different back and forth. finally got correct size belt. in my case it wasn't dealer fault, i looked right at there screen, and belts they order. *shrugs* sadly dealer had to pocket some crud for dealing with wrong size belts.

on other note: if dealer offers cheap to expensive belt options for ya. there can be a difference between how quickly they were out, along with how much they stretch and how much they slip.
it has been to long since needed a new belt for a mower deck, so i have done forgot, the basics of belt types and there qualities. *woops*

i personally avoid any of the "belt conditioners" for better grip / less slip, to cleaning the belts to make them last. i have had belts wear faster when trying the stuff out, vs just going out and buying a replacement belt when needed.

 

[Capricious]

".. I'll play with it...."


That's what i have had to do on occasion. Just keep in mind that if the belts are TOO loose, they may start jumping off the sheaves or jamming on the guides.

 

[Soundguy]

Unfortunately the manual is garbage and doesn't list how to swap out belts/tension, etc. I called Swisher and they said 1/4-1/2 inch, which is what it is now. I'll play with it. Thanks everyone for their help!

wow. IMHO.. all belted machines should have a belt / belt movement diagram..

 

[oosik]

The OP manual for my mower had such a complicated diagram - it was very difficult to interpret. Advice given by Capricious is correct. The belt tension can be a problem until the belt "wears in" and stretches to its final size. When I installed a new belt and finally threaded on & around the pulleys correctly - the blades would quit spinning but even at idle the mower would still jerk forward.

 

[AppleMan]

I loosened the idler spring by a hair and it works well now. I definitely didn't want to over do it and have it jump off the pulleys. It is a really nice machine and saves me a TON of time and backache at my u-pick orchard, but the belts are definitely a problem. That's my guess why thy discontinued this machine. Thanks again for the help everyone.