bent tie rod

[DrewL]

............but now straightened. What do you guys think for the toe-in measurement?


my bad............if it matters........................CK30HST w/R4's

1/4 inch
3/8's inch
5/16th inch?

center line back of the tire vs the center line front of the tire

 

[KiotiJohn]

The front measurement, center of tire to center of tire should be 2-8mm less than the rear measurement.
Make it about 1/4 inch and you should be fine.
John

 

[DrewL]

thank you

 

[Highbeam]

I bent my tie-rod this weekend and pulled the thing off to straighten it. I pickle forked one tie rod end and ended up ripping the boot. Anyway, I took the tie rod off and tried to strighten it. That bugger is stiff. It appears to be solid and I couldn't bend it back. So I have gone back to reassembling and ordering a new one plus a tie rod end. The bend took about an inch of threads to adjust so that I ended with a slight, 1/4", toe in knowing that it is temporary. I know the manual calls out 2-8mm as one of the few specs.

What is it with these low hanging tie-rods? Is there a better way? I didn't even feel the impact when I bent it, only noticed it when I put it on the trailer. Hopefully a new one is cheap.

How did you bend it back? I didn't want to use a torch since the rod would just snap off next time and maybe jamb up through the engine. Bend is better that break. Maybe I should order two since this will likely happen again.

 

[TForan]

I bent mine the first week I had it. The rod is $70.00. Not too bad.

 

[Junkman]

Hopefully you will not bend another, but if you do, count the amount of threads that are exposed and set the new one to this amount of exposed threads. This should put you in the ball park to be close enough. Toe settings aren't that precise on tractors since they don't travel at high speed.
If you need to straighten one in the future, then use a press to do it. Also if you want to remove the joint end without damage, loosen the castle nut till it is almost totally off. Then using a large hammer to back up the drag link, give the other side a sharp wrap with another large hammer. The shock will usually cause the tie rod end to come loose. Just remember, never force it..... get a bigger hammer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Highbeam]

I'll buy a replacement but try and bend the first one back for a spare. I have no problem measuring the toe in with these nicely dropped hubs. 2-8mm per the manual is pretty easy.

I used a pickle fork since I did NOT want to break off the casting on the hub. I suppose I'll be able to quote tie rod end prices later today. I should have lubed the boot so it would slide rather than rip. The thick paint on the boot didn't help it flex.

Sure wish they would put a grease zerc on these tie rod ends.

 

[DrewL]

I ripped both boots but used $3 ones from the "HELP" section at my local auto parts store. They were the 1/2" shaft size. I did in fact use a press and spent an extra minute or two to get all the wiggle out of it. Then loaded the boot up with grease seeing no grease fitting as mentioned. Yeah, there should be one there

 

[Highbeam]

Is it a standard size? That's great. I assumed it wouldn't be. Half inch and the large end fit too? You may have just saved me a few bucks since the joint is still new.

 

[DrewL]

I'm sure they are metric but the 1/2" shaft "HELP" section boots did just fine. The original boots had a double wrap wire retainer which in my opinion , was completely unneccesary but I cut it off with little difficulty