Best Hydraulic Top Link???

[ThrowinDirt]

Looking into buying a Hydraulic top link in the next few days. Which ones do you all thing are the best? Do I have to get one with check valves or not??? Thanks for the replies in advance.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Which ever unit you buy, be sure that you have the right clearance needed at the tractor end of the link. Some tractors need a little more clearance than others for the cylinder to clear in all 3 pin locations. If you buy from me, your cost for a 3" dia cyl with a 1 1/2" dia rod is $225 + $50 for hose and restrictor kit. Look around and buy the one that you feel best about.

 

[teg]

I have one with a check valve... not really sure why. Ok, I know it's for safety... but I don't think I *need* it.

 

[greg_g]

Only reason you'd need check valves is if your tractor has a leaky hydraulic control valve. Otherwise a new cylinder shouldn't leak down for years. I got mine from a member here, and am quite satisfied with product and price. Specify your needs to MtnViewRanch.

//greg//

 

[Gordon Gould]

I got mine from FitRiteHydraulics.com
Excellent quality and knowledgeable friendly service.

I don't have check valves on mine and don't feel the need for them.
There seem to be a lot of opinions on them but never having used them I can't say which I like better. I have heard that they make it harder to feather an adjustment because you have to overcome the pilot pressure before the cylinder moves but I am not sure if this is true in all cases. Some people use flow limiters to help with feathering if their valve does not have good control at low flows or if they have check valves.

 

[shortthrow50]

I too went with a hydraulic top link kit from brian at fit rite hydraulics. I bought the whole kit. I did so becuase the members on this site tell me that this is the only kit that will leave you satisfied. I have not yet received it yet but I believe it will be in next week. Very excited about this new addition and will post up some pics and video when i install it

 

[mfreund]

I bought a swivel ended cylinder from Surplus Center. It is about 1/2 of what actual hydraulic link cylinders go for. The down fall (my fault not theirs) the end that hooked to the tractor was too close and broke the hydraulic fitting on the top. I cut the swivel off and welded a new longer top link swivel on and have had no other problems. I did nothing other than run the cylinder out and then welded it. No disassembly. It will last much longer than me. My neighbor has borrowed the box blade and link and complimated me on how well it works. He worked for a seeding contractor all through college

 

[pclausen]

Hey Brian,

I'm interested in a top link for my John Deere 5085M which after a 4 month wait, should finally be here next week. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure which of the following 3" cylinders would be the best fit for me:

10" stroke 20" - 30"
12" stroke 22" - 34"

I' prefer the 12" stroke, but I want to make sure I can lift all my implements properly.

Also, I only have 3 rear remotes, which will all be in use when I have my all hydraulic blade on the back (angle, tilt, offset), so once I set the proper top link length, I would want to be able to pop those hoses out and inset the ones for the blade.

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?

Push to Connect - Connect Under Pressure Hydraulic Couplers

Any suggestions?

 

[murphy1244]

Looking into buying a Hydraulic top link in the next few days. Which ones do you all thing are the best? Do I have to get one with check valves or not??? Thanks for the replies in advance.

You want a retricter not a check valve. To slow the cylinder speed. Brian is a good vender.

 

[Mudfarmer]

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?



I do that all the time with the one hydraulic outlet I have on the back of my Deere. Set the top link where I want it. Shut off the engine, unhook the quick connectors and hook them up to the log splitter. Hook the toplink hose to each other. No check valves, no drift, can still raise and lower the splitter with the lift arms. Do the reverse when I take the splitter off.
Mf