Best way to move Tractor w/Bush hog on Paved Road?

penokee · Jul 10, 2005

Have to drive 4 miles down blacktop road w/kubota and Bush hog. Is it better to let the Bush hog ride on it's own tire or keep everything suspended via the 3 pt. hitch?
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

GaryE · Jul 10, 2005

If it were me, I would keep the weight on the 3 point hitch. I don't think the wheels on the Bush Hog were designed for paved roads.

Gary

frank_f15 · Jul 10, 2005

IMHO JUST RAISE IT , and go ! at least that is the way i would do it. make sure it is NOT in 4wd and the brush hog is not swaying , and keep the speed moderate according to the road. and of course have the SMV sign on and the flashers going if you have them.

Glenn9643 · Jul 10, 2005

If you've greased the wheel on the bush-hog just let it roll.

crown · Jul 10, 2005

I cover a similar path when bush hogging an extra 6 acers of mine, I keep the hog up on the 3 point have never had a problem.

robison · Jul 10, 2005

I suggest keeping the hog up on the hitch for safety, along with having the slow vehicle triangle and flashers.

If a car hits the raised hog it (the attachment) will be pushed up between the car and you, offering some energy absorbtion and protection. If, on the other hand, the hog is down and rolling on its wheel a car would ride over it and right into you.

penokee · Jul 10, 2005

Thanks all for the suggestions - I forgot about the 4WD, will have to switch to 2WD. Plan to carry it on the 3 pt.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

rfawkes · Jul 11, 2005

For a four or six mile ride, I would trailer the tractor.

Soundguy · Jul 11, 2005

( If a car hits the raised hog it (the attachment) will be pushed up between the car and you, offering some energy absorbtion and protection. If, on the other hand, the hog is down and rolling on its wheel a car would ride over it and right into you )

That depends on the size of the hog /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy

Pooh_Bear · Jul 11, 2005

If I raise my bush hog then the front end is light.
Makes steering kinda iffy in turns.
The front wheels tend to slide.

Pooh Bear

Indydirtfarmer · Jul 11, 2005

( If I raise my bush hog then the front end is light.
Makes steering kinda iffy in turns.
The front wheels tend to slide.

Pooh Bear
)

Add some front weights.... If the tractor is light on the front when "roading it", good chance she's a bit light for "off-road".

Pooh_Bear · Jul 12, 2005

Mine is an 8N, so it is kinda light for a tractor.
I hardly ever use the bush hog or get on the road.
It is fine for mowing with the finish mower.

Pooh Bear

Soundguy · Jul 12, 2005

( If I raise my bush hog then the front end is light.
Makes steering kinda iffy in turns.
The front wheels tend to slide. )

Add front weight. ( suitcase or otherwise.. )

Don't run with the ower all the way up.. just raised slightly..

Soundguy

Soundguy · Jul 12, 2005

If you have a bumper, you can hand suitcase weights on it.. or use carriage bolts to hang some 'garage sale' dumbell weights on it using nut/bolt/big washers. If you don't have a bumper.. TSC has them for about 70$.. and they weight about 65-75# bu themselves. That and a weight or two and you should be fine. You can also fill the front tires to add about 30#... every bit helps.

Soundguy

Pooh_Bear · Jul 12, 2005

It's not really a problem for me.
I just wanted to point out that raising the bush hog can make the front end light.

Since I got a finish mower I haven't used the bush hog but one time.
I don't have the problem with the finish mower.

Pooh Bear

penokee · Jul 12, 2005

rfawkes - I agree that's the best, but my trailer was made for my old crawler some years back and now that I have a L3130, it's too short to haul the Kubota with both the Bush hog and FEL attached - that's the reason for driveing it down the road and not trailering (Need the FEL to remove a few large rock prior to mowing, otherwise have to make 2 seperate trips and change attchments.)
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
ps: Could sell the trailer and get a longer one, but my better half would have a serious problem with that. Recently celebrated our 45Th anniversary, so know I have to be prudent with my toys - don't know how many times I can get away with saying "Yah it cost big bucks, but this is a working tool, many people pay more for a snowmobile to just play with. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

NoTrespassing · Jul 14, 2005

Ah, you didn't mention the loader in the first post. I always remove the loader when I'm going to be mowing with the bush hog. It makes for a much smoother ride. I guess if you're going to be doing loader work or the ground you're mowing is nice and smooth that's a different story.
Kevin

OkieG · Jul 16, 2005

The tail wheel on my BushHog is greaseable. It seems to take turning on hardtop as fast as my tractor will make it go, with no problems. My concern about the tailwheel raised is the shock pressures on the 3PH when going over bumps at transport speed. In the long run, even if the wheel bearing wears out, it will be much cheaper and easier to replace than repair to the 3PH mechanism.

OkeiG

milkman · Jul 16, 2005

I'd just grease the wheel and let it carry some of the weight, as stated before, I don't like the load shock to the hydraulics at speed and as far as the wheel not made for highway use, neither are the tractor tires, sometime you just have to. I'm sure a wheel repair would be cheaper than tractor repair. My brother busted the lift while carrying an impliment and hit a bump with his IH, repair was not cheap. Tractors will take some abuse, but a shock load can be way more than the tractor is designed to handle.