Best way to stuff 6AWG wire in 2AWG Anderson style quick connect

[newbury]

I'm trying to wire my Fords, VW , M4700 and several generators up with quick connectors so I can either run my HF 12K winch or 2.5K winches (and I foresee a 5K winch in my future). For my 12K winch I'll be using 2AWG wire leads, for my smaller winch I'll be using 6 AWG wire leads to save on cost and weight.

I plan on putting a short lead off the batteries of the vehicles/generators with the 2AWG connectors


And use the same on the line end for both set of leads.

But on the 6AWG leads I'll use 6AWG quick connectors on the load end to hook to the smaller winches.

So my question is are there any tricks I should do when crimping 6AWG in the pins designed for 2AWG?

I've read some guys writing to be careful not to flatten the "pin", I've got a Forney crimping tool, but I have not found anyplace where I can buy more pins if I mess them up. And those darn quick connectors are $10@.

 

[Gator6x4]

I'm trying to wire my Fords, VW , M4700 and several generators up with quick connectors so I can either run my HF 12K winch or 2.5K winches (and I foresee a 5K winch in my future). For my 12K winch I'll be using 2AWG wire leads, for my smaller winch I'll be using 6 AWG wire leads to save on cost and weight.

I plan on putting a short lead off the batteries of the vehicles/generators with the 2AWG connectors


And use the same on the line end for both set of leads.

But on the 6AWG leads I'll use 6AWG quick connectors on the load end to hook to the smaller winches.

So my question is are there any tricks I should do when crimping 6AWG in the pins designed for 2AWG?

I've read some guys writing to be careful not to flatten the "pin", I've got a Forney crimping tool, but I have not found anyplace where I can buy more pins if I mess them up. And those darn quick connectors are $10@.

I have seen sleeves soldered onto the ends of wire to increase the size to make for a snug fit and a professional appearance. copper wire sleeve connectors - Bing images

 

[George2615]

I use 4 of these connectors. 2 on the truck, 1 on the tractor, 1 on the diesel fuel pump. I soldered the wiring in the connectors. I did not crimp them and have reused these by removing the pins and unsoldering the wire. I did use some heat shrink tubing because the wire insulation does char when soldering. The heat shrink covers the charred part.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Why not just get the correct pins for wire size?

Pins
PP12/SB12 Loose Piece Contact | Powerwerx
SB175/PP18 Loose Piece Contact | Powerwerx

Shells
SB12 Loose Piece Colored Housing | Powerwerx
SB175 Loose Piece Colored Housing | Powerwerx

Keep in mind that the Warn and other custom brand connectors made by Anderson for other companies will not always connect with the normal Anderson shells and the center key plastic area will need to be ground out.


David

 

[newbury]

I use 4 of these connectors. 2 on the truck, 1 on the tractor, 1 on the diesel fuel pump. I soldered the wiring in the connectors. I did not crimp them and have reused these by removing the pins and unsoldering the wire. I did use some heat shrink tubing because the wire insulation does char when soldering. The heat shrink covers the charred part.

I've read a lot that said crimping is far more reliable than soldering. IF DONE PROPERLY.

I have seen sleeves soldered onto the ends of wire to increase the size to make for a snug fit and a professional appearance. copper wire sleeve connectors - Bing images

That's what I'll be doing probably, but I couldn't find the sleeves for sale in 2 AWG size. BUT I found if I took 3/8 OD soft copper pipe and split it then I could "tap" it into the 2AWG contact and the 6 AWG wire will fit tighter.

Why not just get the correct pins for wire size?

Pins
PP12/SB12 Loose Piece Contact | Powerwerx
SB175/PP18 Loose Piece Contact | Powerwerx

Shells
SB12 Loose Piece Colored Housing | Powerwerx
SB175 Loose Piece Colored Housing | Powerwerx

Keep in mind that the Warn and other custom brand connectors made by Anderson for other companies will not always connect with the normal Anderson shells and the center key plastic area will need to be ground out.


David

Nice link but the contacts would cost about $5.60/shell. If I had not already bought the connectors that would be the place to buy from.

Next thing how to try and crimp the large connector in the future. I bought one of the inexpensive "hammer" crimpers (used with a vise). But using it on the 6 AWG connectors proved to me that crimping the 2AWG would be a no go. And I can see some need in the future for even larger crimps.

Looking at hydraulic hex crimpers in the 16 Ton range they run about $35 plus for eBay. The same or a little more on Amazon. But at that price point the warranty is usually nil and there are a lot of complaints about valve failures. To get up to a reliable brand name unit may cost $600 or more.

Any advice for hydraulic hex crimpers? Should I just plan on buying several to find one that works?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I've read a lot that said crimping is far more reliable than soldering. IF DONE PROPERLY.

I don't know where you get your reading material but "if done properly" means a lot for either soldering or crimping. I would certainly rather have a wire soldered joint than a crimp any day of the week and if done properly, it is water tight as opposed to a crimp which can get moisture under it and cause corrosion. A soldered joint would also fill up any loose fit in the connection by using wire too small. Just flux both parts well and don't heat the connection more than needed to start melting the solder, then heat shrink a sleeve over it for insulation of the parts. You cant get better than that.

 

[newbury]

I don't know where you get your reading material but "if done properly" means a lot for either soldering or crimping. I would certainly rather have a wire soldered joint than a crimp any day of the week and if done properly, it is water tight as opposed to a crimp which can get moisture under it and cause corrosion. A soldered joint would also fill up any loose fit in the connection by using wire too small. Just flux both parts well and don't heat the connection more than needed to start melting the solder, then heat shrink a sleeve over it for insulation of the parts. You cant get better than that.

I got my reading material from the powerwerx.com website:

CRIMPING VS. SOLDERING

One of the many questions we receive is, "is it best to solder or crimp Anderson Powerpole Connectors?" While both methods will work, crimping an Anderson Powerpole connector to wire is much preferred for better long lasting results. It's important that each method be performed properly. If you are going to crimp, use a crimper that will not destroy the round shape of the contact. Some brands of crimpers deform the barrel of the contact into an oval. The oval will not allow easy insertion into the housing and therefore requires re-crimping to make sure the contact is still a rounded shape.

The Anderson site only mentions crimping, and I found the tool for only $1,813.62 on mouser.

A PROPERLY DONE hydraulic crimp smashes all the wires together:

 

[Industrial Toys]

I solder just about every joint. The problem with soldering is that often the solder flows up the wire and makes it stiff for a short length.

Few crimps unless done in a factory (not in China) are done right, in my opinion. Even business that do a lot of them, like in making battery cables and such, are not properly done. The die needs to be EXACT for the particular connector and particular wire. Some people think, just "squashed" is good. A good crimped connection is gas tight.

 

[schmism]

HF to the rescue

Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

$50 for a hex crimp instead of bashing on it with a hammer.

Double the wire around on itself at the end, then solder and build up end thickness. Then crimp squishing everything together.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The Anderson site only mentions crimping, and I found the tool for only $1,813.62 on mouser.

A PROPERLY DONE hydraulic crimp smashes all the wires together:[/QUOTE]
I have done quality control on high voltage crimps and the only method to see if you have "squashed" all the air out other than destructive testing like the photo is to xray them, BTDT on lots of them and even with a crimper that costs several thousand bucks, you still have some failures. For most home uses, a soldered joint is the quickest, easiest and best joint and even if you are starting from scratch with no equipment, $30 for a propane torch, some flux and 1# solder of will get you everything you need for hundreds of joints.