Best way to stuff 6AWG wire in 2AWG Anderson style quick connect

[CurlyDave]

I have done quality control on high voltage crimps and the only method to see if you have "squashed" all the air out other than destructive testing like the photo is to xray them, BTDT on lots of them and even with a crimper that costs several thousand bucks, you still have some failures. For most home uses, a soldered joint is the quickest, easiest and best joint and even if you are starting from scratch with no equipment, $30 for a propane torch, some flux and 1# solder of will get you everything you need for hundreds of joints.

The big problem with soldering is that the solder wicks up the wire strands and stiffens the wire. The end of the solder wick area will inevitably fail under vibration. Essentially the wire without solder between the strands moves more than it should, work hardens, and breaks.

This has been known in the automotive and truck industries for at least 35 years, which is when I learned it.

I have always filled a crimp connector with short pieces of the smaller wire before crimping so the connector was full and would crimp properly. I don't know if this is kosher or not, but it seems reasonable.

 

[CCWKen]

And who here takes the time to properly wash the soldered terminals? The OP can't even use the correct terminals--Too expensive. I wouldn't use solder on any connection that will be exposed to weathering or even outside of an environmentally controlled room.

I suppose if I HAD TO HAVE IT NOW, I'd use a sleeve on the smaller wire. But this sure doesn't sound like a time-critical event. A few bucks will make it right.

 

[newbury]

HF to the rescue

Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

$50 for a hex crimp instead of bashing on it with a hammer.

Double the wire around on itself at the end, then solder and build up end thickness. Then crimp squishing everything together.

That's what I think I'll end up using. Lot's of bad reviews on it but most bad reviews seem to focus on it not being big enough for 0 wire lugs. The Amazon and Ebay 16 ton crimpers are what I'd like but it seems they suffer from poor quality control with valve problems. At least with the HF offering it's an easy return to a B&M I frequent.

The big problem with soldering is that the solder wicks up the wire strands and stiffens the wire. The end of the solder wick area will inevitably fail under vibration. Essentially the wire without solder between the strands moves more than it should, work hardens, and breaks.

This has been known in the automotive and truck industries for at least 35 years, which is when I learned it.

I have always filled a crimp connector with short pieces of the smaller wire before crimping so the connector was full and would crimp properly. I don't know if this is kosher or not, but it seems reasonable.

That's what I've read also.
That's about what I'm planning on doing and using the soft copper pipe as a sleeve

And who here takes the time to properly wash the soldered terminals? The OP can't even use the correct terminals--Too expensive. I wouldn't use solder on any connection that will be exposed to weathering or even outside of an environmentally controlled room.

I suppose if I HAD TO HAVE IT NOW, I'd use a sleeve on the smaller wire. But this sure doesn't sound like a time-critical event. A few bucks will make it right.

It's not that I CAN'T. It's that I choose NOT TO. And if you want to buy and ship me the "correct terminals" I'll PM you my address. But every buck I have can be better spent on something else, especially since about 4 inches of soft copper pipe I already have on hand will do for the sleeves I need.

 

[Garandman]

Where's a good place to buy Anderson connectors?

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Where's a good place to buy Anderson connectors?

For selection Powerwerx, price, Ebay.

I use a Plato SP-500T solder pot or a torch to solder.

For the 4/0 inverter cables crimped and soldered every one then heat shrink, no corrosion yet with 6 6v GC batteries.