Better ways to slide bushing off?

[canoetrpr]

I am working on taking the propeller shaft off my tractor to replace my oil pan. It is attached to the tractor with two bushings.

The last time I had it off I greased it really well but it is still a son of a gun to slide it off. A lot off hammering with a chisel.

There must be a more efficient way to do this. Is there some sort of pulling tool I am missing or some trick. A mechanic must not spend the time it takes me to take it off and put it on or he would be broke! Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[Richard]

I"m going to say something that is probably off target and out of bounds. I have ZERO clue what you are trying to fix which is furhter reason why I should shut up. Grease when heated will probably 'melt' and for all I know ignite so that's yet another reason why I should not say anything.

ok, so now that I've displayed most of my ignorance (I really have a lot more to back that up )

Would this perhaps work in your application?

I once had a dirtbike (wicked Maico 1983 490 ) and needed to replace the bearings in the crank.

Seems the quick way about that was to take the disassembled engine halves, use a propane torch around the bearing which expanded the metal just a bit. The old bearing simply fell out and while warm, I put the new bearing back in.

As the engine case cooled the metal tightened up around the new bearing and it was in there as tight as can be.

I couldn't believe how easy this was. I was told I had to heat the engine but no one told me specifically how.

I'll admit there was one point where I had actually put the engine casings inside the oven to heat them up Only today, years later...do I tell the wife about that. By the way, the oven method didn't work so I do not recommend you trying to back your tractor into your wifes oven.

 

[dsgsr]

I'm assuming it is the drive shaft you a taking about? Might there be roll pins holding the end cupplings on?

David

 

[Bird]

Like Richard, I'm not sure about your project, but I've had similar experiences. When repairing impact wrenches, the IR231 is one of the most popular half inch impacts around and the manual tells about pulling air motor out of the housing, but fails to mention that it will be next to impossible to do unless you heat the housing first. Anyone and everyone in the air tool repair business has a propane torch handy.

 

[canoetrpr]

I described the problem to my neighbour and he too had a hard time realizing what I was doing. Once he figured it out he said that I should use the term 'coupling' instead of a bushing.

What I have is a shaft that delivers power from the rear axle to the front for 4WD. The shaft attaches to the rear axle and the front using two couplings one for front axle and one for rear axle. The attachment points to the axles are much like the point that you hook up a PTO onto the tractor - little shaft with splines.

There are splines on each end of the propeller shaft and each attachment point on the axles. A coupling slides over the shaft and then over to the attachment point on the front/rear axle.

To take the shaft off, at each end - front and rear - you have to slide the coupling in and away from the axle after taking a spring pin off - so this way it slides off the attachment point on the axles.

I finally got the bugger off yesterday after much sweat. It was about 1/4 the time in total of what it took me the first time around though.

 

[TODD G]

I've been working on kubotas for over twenty years and if you lubed it the last time it should be real easy to remove (when they rust they are a real pain) the only other trick is to make sure it is out of gear (4wd) and if that doesn't do the trick jack up the front end this will take the wind out of the drive shaft. Feel free to contact me at parts@parsonstractor.com

 

[Richard]

Todd, I just want to say that's a very gracious offer, thanks on behalf of anyone who's ever needed a hand!!

 

[kenstrac]

I have removed those couplings in the past by using a pipe clamp and pulling the couplings together, or using a yoke and prying against front bolster and on the rear against transmission,After you have them out clean both surfaces with wire tooth brush and try them on the splines they should be loose and should take no effort to slide unless you distorted them .Then I coat both surfaces with NEVER SEIZE.

 

[canoetrpr]

Todd:

Thank you very much for your thoughts. I remembered to grease them VERY well the last time. Unfortunately this helped but only a bit.

I realized that I had left 4wd on before I turned my tractor off. I could not push it in again - sometimes I have to move the tractor a bit to be able to push the lever. By this point I had already drained the oil so I had to stop my self from attempting to start it to move the tractor a bit!

I hope I don't have to do this again but if I do you've given me enough tips here to make this substantially easier!